Hay River and Madigan's Line ( Member's Private Trip )
September 2006

Written Patrick Sutcliffe

It was cold and grey as we left Sydney on the first leg of a planned four-week trip up the Hay River, across to Alice Springs and then the Simpson Desert via Madigan’s Line, Colson Track and Rig Road. We were to meet our travelling companions in Dubbo where rooms had been booked in a motel. It’s a good job we had taken this precaution, because it would not have been much fun camping out that night.

Shortly after booking into the motel, we received a phone call saying that Ed and Narelle in their 1983 Rangie were in a spot of bother on the other side of Wellington – the electrics had caught fire! They were with David and Jenny in a 1978, six-wheel Rangie (refer February, 2005 Land Rover Enthusiast) and John and Sally in their 1999 300 Tdi Disco and so we knew that if they couldn’t get it going, nobody could.

Sure enough, a couple of hours later they all arrived and we were able to enjoy a good dinner in the motel restaurant, knowing that it would be the last meal cooked by someone else for some time. Others joining us for the trip were our daughter, Jane with her 2003, V8 Disco and Phillip with his 1996 300 Tdi Disco. We, of course, were in our 2003 TD6 Rangie.

Next morning, we all gathered in the car park to assess the situation with Ed’s Rangie. It did not look good – not only were there a few loose wires, but it was running very roughly. After an hour or so, Ed and Narelle decided that they didn’t want to risk coming with us, and so decided to turn back for Sydney, and the rest of us set off towards Bourke.

The rain had stopped and the drive up the tarmac was pleasant enough. But the best bit was to receive a phone call as we were leaving our lunch spot to say that Ed had got his vehicle going and he was going to catch us up. He was about three hours behind us at this stage, but knew where we were planning to camp between Bourke and Hungerford and would meet us there.

But when we got to Bourke, it was to discover that the road to Hungerford was closed. There had been very heavy rain all through the area we planned to go over the next few days and it didn’t look good. More to the point, we couldn’t get to the designated campsite to meet Ed and Narelle. We drove into the bush as far along the Hungerford road as we could go and left messages on Ed’s satellite and mobile phones telling him where we were and sure enough, they were able to find us just on sunset.

Next morning, we checked with the local authorities who told us that the road was now open to Hungerford for light vehicles. Although there was a lot of water on the side of the road, and it was a little boggy in places, there were no problems.

Just on lunchtime, however, we had our second problem. John came over the radio to say that he had a funny noise, which when everyone got out to look, was quickly diagnosed as one of his sill tanks hanging loose. A bolt had dropped out, which was quickly replaced – and the others checked – with no permanent damage.

We topped up with fuel at Hungerford before checking in with the homestead we were driving through and setting off for our camp for the night.

Next day dawned and the first thing we had to do was change our first puncture that had developed overnight in Jane’s Disco.

 

As we progressed further west the track became more and more boggy. It was obvious that there’d been a lot of rain out here recently, even if it was blue skies now. There were a number of bypasses around boggy holes, but it wasn’t long before we had our first bogging. Ed was well and truly stuck in thick, gooey stuff, that a couple of people had already driven through, so fortunately Jane was able to back up and pull him out with a kinetic strap.

 

 

And so it went, for most of the day, really. The only people who didn’t get stuck were us, John and Phillip. Everyone else got bogged at least once. By the end of it, our vehicles were revolting. I reckon we must all have been carrying half a tonne of mud in wheel arches, wheels and under the sills. But it was good fun! And the farmers would be happy.

Finally, much later than we had planned, we arrived at Tickalara ruins, where we were able to poke around amongst the detritus and find all sorts of interesting things, including a home-made still! Bet it had a tale or two to tell!

That night we camped a couple of kilometres up the Orientos Track in amongst the bush.

The next morning started out much the same as the previous day – changing a wheel following a puncture, this time David and Jenny’s – and more mud to bypass or get stuck in! The track was also quite slow, apart from the mud and water.

We made Nappa Merrie by a late lunchtime and sat by the banks of the Cooper in the beautiful sunshine. The original plan had been to go into Innamincka for fuel, showers, etc, but we were quite a bit behind schedule which had us meeting Peter and Robyn in their S Model TDV6 Discovery 3 in Birdsville the next day, and we wanted to go to Haddons Corner on the way. So we decided to bypass Innamincka and go straight on towards Haddons Corner.

Before that though, I had to attend to a problem with my vehicle. Just as we arrived at the Cooper for lunch, a message came up on the computer and a red light came on on the dash – “Check Brake Pads”. As we had put new pads on just before we left, I knew that it had to be a sensor, so in an effort to clean it, I got buckets of water from the Creek and thoroughly washed the wheels and surrounds which were covered in thick, now-dry mud, but to no avail. We were to be afflicted with this message for the rest of the trip!

After we’d been going for about 90 kilometres, a message came over the radio from David to the effect that we seemed to be going in the wrong direction! This was quickly confirmed by Ed who had been watching his GPS for a while and was now convinced that David was right. Sure enough, we’d missed the turnoff to Haddons Corner and Birdsville and were now well on our way to Windorah!

There was nothing for it but to turn around and find somewhere to camp along the road. Fortunately, there are a number of opportunities and at 5 pm we pulled off along a very nice dry creek bed some 20 kilometres short of Nappa Merrie, which we’d left three hours earlier!

The detour did have its compensations though as we saw a dingo and our first camel on the way back.

It was obvious that we could not now go to Haddons Corner if for no other reason than fuel reserves were now too low, and so next morning we set off for Innamincka where we were able to get tyres repaired and fill up with fuel and fresh-baked roles for lunch.

We stopped at Cordillo Downs to admire the magnificent shearing shed and pressed on north towards Birdsville. The road was good, although there were a number of bypasses around boggy holes, and we were able to make good time, even stopping for photos of a couple of beautiful waterholes and creek crossings. The rain had certainly greened up the countryside and in the sunshine it was looking good.

We obviously weren’t going to make Birdsville and so a quick call to Peter on the satellite phones and we pulled into Cadelga ruins as sunset was approaching. After taking the obligatory photos, we pushed on down the creek bed as far from the road as possible and set up camp. Wood was a little scarce, but we found enough for another good campfire.

During the night there were a few drops of rain, but you’d never have known it the next morning when we woke up. It hadn’t even laid the dust. But there was a spectacular sunrise which had all the doomsayers going on about ‘red skies in the morning’.

We were away early and into Birdsville in time for morning tea. We all caught up with Peter and Robyn, filled up our vehicles with fuel and water, had showers and did some laundry before meeting at the famous pub for lunch.

After lunch we set off west with grey clouds above. We’d only gone a couple of kilometres when we met a group of Danes who were just finishing a walk from Old Andado along Madigan’s Line! Father, mother and two sons in their 20s (I think, it was difficult to tell underneath on the facial hair!). They had taken a month and were looking forward to a beer in the pub! Can’t say I blamed them!

Another few kilometres and we had the first of what would be many instances of Peter in his shiny new Disco getting stuck. The irony is that if we’d stayed on the track instead of bypassing a boggy hole – something we’d become accustomed to over the last few days – he’d have been OK. As David hitched up a strap and prepared to pull him out, a couple of vehicles sailed past through the mud which was all of two centimetres deep!!

The problem is that the base, coil-sprung Disco is just too low. It has the clearance of a Ford Territory, if that. It catches on all the clumps of mud and spinifex in the centre of the track, giving a very uncomfortable ride to its occupants, and has to be pulled over small sand dunes that no-one else had a problem with. By the end of the trip, Peter was not a happy chappie and was talking of selling it, but I’m getting ahead of myself!

 

We all crossed Big Red without any problems and posed for photos on the other side. Then on over the dunes towards Eyre Creek which was very dry. It would appear that the recent heavy rain hadn’t reached this far north, although there was evidence of some precipitation.

The camping at Eyre Creek was a little sparse and so we pushed on a bit until we reached some softer sand and a bit more wood and set up camp.

 

As we were doing this, Ed discovered a puncture in his rear off-side tyre, so proceeded to repair it! It was a most impressive performance as he broke the bead using a home-made bead breaker and the weight of the vehicle, pushed the tyre into the wheel well using a pair of tyre levers, removed the inner tube, located the hole, repaired it and then put it all back together again!! Meanwhile, we were all enjoying wine and nibbles around the campfire!

 

 

Next morning was an easy run to the K1 line where we turned north up the side of a large salt pan. From now on, it was unfamiliar territory for us all, until we hit the Plenty Highway in four days time.

We stopped at Poeppel Well Number One and Beachcomber Well Number One where unsuccessful attempts had been made in 1988 to discover oil. The track to this point had been very good as it had been graded to allow access for the exploration teams and it was interesting to reflect on what this part of the world would have been like if they had found oil. We almost certainly wouldn’t have been allowed through and there would have been a huge super-highway to Birdsville, similar to the roads servicing Santos near Innamincka.

Shortly after leaving Beachcomber, we turned sharp right to follow a shot line across the dunes for about 15 kilometres. This was more like it – ungraded, lots of sand dunes, spectacular country.

 

For the next two days we travelled through some of the most beautiful desert any of us had seen – quite different to the rest of the Simpson. Initially, there were very few plants, not even spinifex, just beautiful deep red sand dunes, some of which would have presented quite a challenge to vehicles coming in the other direction – very soft and quite steep.

 

 

 

 

The track was very indistinct because it had never been graded and the wind had blown away the tracks of people before us. So the leader was following his nose to a great extent.

It was here that we began to appreciate the navigation set up that Ed had got in his Rangie. He has a notebook PC that is secured to the centre console on a wooden base that is vibration and shock resilient and rotates so that it can be operated by either the driver or passenger.

It uses OziExplorer GPS mapping software that enables real-time tracking of a GPS position on a moving map. The GPS position is supplied from a Garmin Map76CS GPS receiver via the serial port on the PC and mounted on the dash. The PC contains the entire digital map of Australia supplied by NATMAP and other digital maps supplied by HEMA on CD are also installed for better coverage of the desert regions.

We stopped at Madigan’s Camp 16 which had a considerable number of plaques left by previous travellers and a visitor’s book, which was duly signed.

Then on to Camp 15 on a very slow track, bumping over spinifex clumps. But shortly afterwards we entered the Hay River bed and as we went further and further north the gums and gidgees got bigger and the track became smoother as it wound its way around the trees. Wildlife was abundant too, with lizards, camels, falcons and many smaller birds.

On the second day, we reached the crossing of the Hay River that is purported to go out to Lake Caroline and is well worth a visit. The lake would be dry, but the camping is meant to be good.

The notes we had from ExploreOz stated that you drive onto the river bed and drive north for three kilometres before climbing out onto the track heading west towards the lake. Ed was leading and swung up the river following the tracks left by previous vehicles. We were second, Jane was third and Peter was next and we all followed blindly before we began to realise there was something wrong! The sand was extremely soft and deep and full power was required just to keep any form of forward momentum.

Ed found a place where he could turn around without getting bogged and set off back to where everyone else was waiting and was not going to stop for anyone! In the meantime, Peter had got well hung up on his chassis in the middle of the river bed and was not going anywhere and we’d stopped whilst trying to turn in soft stuff and were also stuck. Fortunately, Jane was stopped just behind us on firmer ground and after a bit of clearing around the wheels was able to pull us out without any problem.

Next problem was Peter. Nobody was going to be able to get anywhere near him with a strap without also getting stuck, but fortunately, he had a winch. Although the trees were all on the side of the river, and therefore at a 90 degree angle to the vehicle, there was no option but to winch him onto the firmer ground on the side. After a lot of digging around the wheels and under the vehicle, this was successfully achieved and all three of us set off at full speed to join the rest of the group.

So much for Lake Caroline!

We continued travelling north, and three kilometres further on we discovered a track that went straight across the river bed and obviously went on to the lake! But by this time we’d lost our enthusiasm! Next time!

Mid-morning next day we arrived at Batten Hill Camp where we’d arranged for a Bush Tucker tour and to spend the night. The Bush Tucker tour, we were told by Kevin and Billy, our Aboriginal guides would take about an hour and a half and the ExploreOz notes said that it was three kilometres long. Well, four and a half hours and 43 kilometres later, we arrived back at the camp! I think time and distance are different out here!

But it was worth it. The country is magnificent, with some beautiful mounts and jump ups which give great views out over the plains. We also were able to sample a variety of bush tucker, although not witchetty grubs. I’m not sure whether this was a good thing or not!

This was where we said goodbye to Peter, Robyn, David and Jenny who all had to be back in Sydney by the Monday for work commitments.

Batten Hill camp itself is very well set up, with showers heated by a donkey boiler continuously fed by Kevin, flush toilets and a great oven/BBQ area. The camp area itself is very hard though, requiring a lot of hammering of tent pegs.

That evening, Kevin brought over to the BBQ a rib cage from a kangaroo that “had been knocked down”, which we cut up and ate around the campfire!

Next day, we had an easy run to Jervois for fuel and then to Gemtree Caravan Park for lunch before arriving in Alice Springs mid-afternoon.

A number of us had things to attend to here. I had to get a puncture repaired; Ed had to acquire a new tyre; Phillip had an appointment at Suttons to get his panhard rod fixed; and Jane also went there to get her rear door catch fixed so that she could get in! And the next day was spent cleaning our vehicles inside and out and restocking our supplies.

When I picked up my wheel, Beurepaires said that I’d had a stake through the sidewall, but he’d fixed it, even though he shouldn’t have done. But, as he said, I’d never have got another one out here. I’d have had to wait for one to be shipped from Melbourne, which could have taken three days. That’s the trouble with 18-inch wheels – you can’t get any tyres away from the capital cities, not even a road-biased tyre.

After a couple of very comfortable nights at the Crown Plaza, we set off south and turned our heads for home. There was a lot of action to be had before that though.

Morning tea was had at Rainbow Valley which was new to most of us. It’s a great spot to get out and walk, with some wonderful photo opportunities. When we returned to our vehicles, Ed discovered yet another puncture! As we were not far from the highway, he pumped his tyre up high and made for Stuarts Well in the hope that there might be a mechanic on duty who could repair it.

Unfortunately, there wasn’t, so whilst Ed changed his wheel one more time, the rest of us chatted to the baby camels and kangaroos.

Then it was off to the Hugh River Stock Route and Chambers Pillar. The road from Maryvale to Chambers Pillar was extremely rough – corrugated, washed-out and dusty. But we did see a large mob of camels.

On arrival at Chambers Pillar we discovered that all the campsites were occupied, which didn’t worry us one bit – we moved off back down the track a bit and found a nice spot all to ourselves. Fortunately we’d picked up wood for the campfire at lunchtime, because there is none there (and it’s illegal to use what wood there is, anyway).

After quickly setting up camp, we all went off to watch the sun set on the Pillar. The colours are amazing as the red rock catches the last rays of the sun. The only thing that spoilt it was the ugly iron structure around the base to allow people access to the graffiti (both old and new!).

Next morning saw us all up before sunrise so that we could take photos from the other side and after breakfast we went for a walk up to the base, before setting off for Maryvale and a fuel top-up. Fuel here was the most expensive for the whole trip (187c/litre) and we would have done better to have waited until we got to Finke. But we did get a chance to talk at some length with the staff and find out a bit about the place, as well as meet two orphaned calves, which were a great hit.

The Hema map showed the track to Finke heading off south from Maryvale/Titjikala, so that’s the way we headed. The track was a single-blade station track that wound its way through the trees and we stopped for lunch a little way along it. We were almost through when a station hand came past and stopped for a chat. It turned out that we were on a private track and that the station (Maryvale) owner was having a long battle with Hema about it. Apparently they just drove through, surveyed it and marked it on their maps without checking. We should have gone north from Maryvale to Rodinga ruins and gone south from there. Fortunately, he didn’t make us retrace our steps and it wasn’t long before we joined the Finke Road.

This track is the old Ghan railway line that has been graded, so not only is it easy going, there are a number of interesting things to see along the way. Camp that night was north of Finke on the Finke River.

Whilst at camp we checked on the situation with fuel at New Crown. Our older maps showed that fuel was only available at New Crown in an emergency, but the newer Hema Maps said that it was available at all times, and even gave opening hours and a phone number. We would like to fill up at New Crown as it was further in to the desert than Finke, but luckily we checked – Hema is wrong! If we’d arrived at New Crown, we would have had to retrace our steps some 30 kilometres.

Next day we set off for Lamberts Geographical centre of Australia. There’s nothing there, apart from a flag pole and a plaque, but you’ve got to say you’ve been!

Then into Finke for a top up. I’m now carrying 200 litres of diesel to cover the approximately 950 kilometres to Mungerannie and the V8 Disco is carrying 220 litres.

On to Old Andado. Caretakers were looking after the place and they allowed us to wander around the place and take photos. It was a time capsule. Extraordinary to think that anyone could live there during summer.

Bush camping around here is pretty sparse, but we managed to find the spot that some of us had camped at a few years back, where there were at least half a dozen trees and even some wood left over from last time.

Next morning was the start of the big adventure along Madigan’s Line. We had a number of goes trying to find the track, firstly at Mac Clark’s Acacia Peuse Reserve, where the “Start” plaque is and later on at East Bore. The trouble with East Bore is that there are no real tracks, and any left by previous visitors have been trampled on by the cattle. We spent quite some time following wrong tracks and once again, Ed’s setup saved us, as he was quickly able to ascertain when we were heading in the wrong direction.

Finally, it was decided that we would set a course to Camp 1A using the GPS co-ordinates and follow our noses. This is the first time in all our travels that a plain old paper map was unable to help us. We soon came to a track that looked to be heading in the right direction and we were able to relax a bit. But not for long!

We stopped to walk to the top of a magnificent red dune on the side of the track and then tried to get over it. Ed was leading and there appeared to be any number of options to get over it. Unfortunately, the one Ed picked required a sharp left hand turn in extremely soft and deep sand at the top and he came to a halt.

We were able to get past him onto the top of the dune where we quickly attached a strap. Unfortunately, it was not a straight pull and all that happened when I tried to pull him out was that I broke through the hard crust and went down very fast until I was resting on the floor pan! Two vehicles stuck. Which just proves that you should never travel with less than three vehicles in this part of the world.

John then managed to get past Ed and over the dune so that he was facing downhill and in a straight line. With two snatch straps joined together, he was able to pull him out.

In the meantime, there was a lot of digging going on around and under my vehicle and Phillip was able to get into a similar position as John and pull me out with two straps joined together. This just left Jane, who took a flier. She didn’t get stuck because she hardly touched the ground!

So the first lesson of Madigan’s was learnt – if in doubt, get out and look at the track ahead at dunes. This proved to be a wise maxim, as there were a large number of dunes that were vert steep on the descending side and the track quite often did not go straight over.

Lunch was at Camp 1A before setting off to Camp 2. The track at this stage was very easy and not at all what we were expecting. It crossed a huge gibber plain with rocks that would rip your tyres apart if you weren’t careful and it was here that we got out for a spell and Jane found some rocks that had obviously been used by Aborigines in days gone by for sharpening tools.

Camp 2 was in the middle of this gibber plain and so we pushed on until we hit the many dry tributaries of the Todd River. Camping here amongst the gums was beautiful and after we’d set up camp, we all took a walk to the top of one of The Twins, two smallish hills that gave spectacular views over the countryside.

Within a few metres of the campsite the next morning, we had to clamber over a very nasty dune and it wasn’t long before Ed reported a nasty grinding noise coming from his gearbox and John reported a nasty banging noise coming from his rear end. John’s problem turned out to be a lost bolt on the anti-roll bar which had allowed it to come loose and he was able to wire it up to the axle. Ed’s problem was more worrying, though, but after checking everything, it seemed that the only likely source was the front swivel housings, which were low on oil. Anyway, it seemed to fix the problem.

 

The track was now very slow going as it deteriorated to a very slow, bumpy ride over spinifex clumps and quite large dunes that required constant vigilance. But the country is spectacular and, of course, no-one else for miles.

Finally we arrived at the junction with the Colson Track and it was with some relief that we stopped for lunch before setting our course south. My on-board computer told me that I had averaged 39.5 kilometres per 100 litres since camp, and so it’s a good thing we’re not going all the way! But the general consensus was a great feeling of achievement, even if we had only done part of Madigan’s Line.

Shortly after restarting, the on-board computer sent a message saying “Air Suspension Inactive”. On checking the manual it said that I’d overheated it – which was not surprising – and that if the message persisted for more than 25 minutes I should contact my dealer!! It also said I’d be restricted to 60 kph. However, the suspension had settled into the middle of its three settings and we were unlikely to be going more than 60 kph for some time, so we pressed on. Jane’s ACE system on her Disco 2 was also flashing red, also undoubtedly from overuse.

Camping along this section of the Colson Track is very sparse – not a tree in sight and huge spinifex clumps that preclude any level spot for a tent. Finally, we found a small claypan and we were able to pull off the track and set up camp. Whilst doing so, I noticed that one of my tyres was quite flat. I pumped it up high to see what the situation is in the morning – we’ve still a long way to go, and although I have two spare wheels, I’d like to keep this one going as long as I could.

Next morning, the tyre had gone down, but not completely, so I decided to blow it up and rely on the Sensatyre system to let me know if it got below a certain level.

The journey down the Colson Track was a continuous slog, with no-one being able to do more than 30 kph over the spinifex bumps. At least we were travelling parallel with the dunes. The dunes beside the Track were extraordinary, very similar to those on the early part of the Hay River Track. They were very red and because of the lack of vegetation, made for some excellent photos.

At morning tea, John decided to change a rear shock absorber. He had developed an irregular knocking as he negotiated the bumps and after some investigation, this seemed to be the obvious cause.

As we were clearing up, a lone vehicle appeared from the south – we’re not sure who was more surprised! They had decided on a whim to go right up the Colson Track. We pointed out that the north of the Track was closed and required a permit, but this did not deter him. Nor did the fact that he would not have enough fuel to return if he was turned back. So we left them to their fate.

We had only gone a few metres, when Narelle and Ed, who were travelling immediately behind John, asked him if he still had the knocking, which was confirmed. Narelle then pointed out that the rear step was bouncing up and down and hitting the rear bumper bar and on inspection it was revealed that the gas strut had broken! Such a simple thing!

When we got to Colson Well, about 20 kilometres north of the French Line, the track and country improved, with a number of camping opportunities amongst gidgee and gums.

Just after leaving the Well, Ed got another puncture – his fourth! This was more than a puncture, though – he’d wrecked the tyre and it had come off the rim. He wouldn’t be repairing this one!

On arrival at the French Line, we had to make a decision. If the Warburton Track was closed at the crossing, we would have to head for Birdsville, but a quick satellite phone call established that everything was OK and so we crossed the French Line and continued on until we hit the WAA Line, where we turned east and after crossing a couple of dunes, pulled into a nice campsite with plenty of wood.

The WAA line the next morning was interesting, with some quite soft dunes with caps on them that required a bit of a charge, particularly for me, with “Air Suspension Inactive” (although I had by this stage established that I was not restricted to 60 kph). But no-one had any problems and shortly after lunch we arrived at the Knolls Track.

The track running between the dunes was easy going and we made good time down onto the Rig Road where we set up camp. Just before we reached the campsite, though, we were given one more treat by the desert – a herd of camels with two babies, one of which was pure white!

 

The Rig Road around the lakes was very easy, but we soon came to some quite large dunes with big windblows on the top, that no-one had obviously been across for some time. In fact the penultimate dune before hitting the Warburton Track was a real doozy, with a windblow of very soft sand about a metre and a half high. So we drove up the claypan for about a kilometre until we found a place that looked as though we could get across.

With full power and a flurry of sand we were across and called the others to follow.

The Warburton Track was again easy going, although there was evidence of recent very heavy rain and we made Warburton Crossing, which had about 5 centimetres of water in it, by lunchtime. Then on to Mungerannie for a refuel and our first shower in over a week! I had used 133 litres of diesel for the 924 kilometres from Finke (14.38 litres per 100 kilometres).

That night, after watching masses of birds including two brolgas at the waterhole, we had a very enjoyable meal in the pub.

After a lazy start watching the birds and inspecting an old Landy, next morning we set off back up the Track to Walkers Crossing Track. As we approached it, we could see what looked like two Chevy Blitzes turning in from the north. It wasn’t long before we caught up with them for a chat and they turned out to be a beautifully restored fire engine and an equally beautifully restored tow truck. They were on their way home to Clare after having crossed the Simpson.

Lunch was had at Kulchera Dune which everyone climbed to get a view of the surrounding countryside. But we also found lots of evidence of animals, including what looked like dingo holes and masses of tracks of lizards, etc. It would be a very interesting place to be at night.

The track once again showed evidence of a lot of recent rain with numerous bypasses around stretches of water and mud. But there were a number of areas where the wattle was in full bloom and there was a lot of green stuff on the ground, making for a very picturesque trip.

That night we camped at Gidgealpa Waterhole, which was extremely dry and looked as though it had been for quite some time.

After driving for a number of days on my deflating tyre and pumping it up three times a day, it was time to change the wheel, where we almost came unstuck. We have had trouble with the Range Rover jack before, when we screwed up the thread as we were lowering it. This time it was the handle that just bent until it looked like a banana (although not worth as much!). Fortunately we were able to use a heavy duty screw driver to raise the vehicle, but the jack is obviously not designed to lift a fully-laden vehicle. This could present a problem, the only solution to which appears to be to carry a second jack.

The next morning we made Kings Marker for morning tea and it was interesting to see how much the landscape had changed since we spent a couple of nights here a few years back. There has obviously been some pretty severe flooding.

On to Innamincka for showers and a tyre repair. It turned out that all the running on the partially inflated tyre had caused the rubber compound to break down and there was a mass of little bits of rubber in the wheel. It was not such a good idea after all! Fortunately, there was a second-hand, plugged tyre of the correct size in stock which I was obtain at a good price so that I was once again able to have two spare wheels.

Whilst waiting, Ed discovered a number of very large splits in the tyre that he had acquired at Alice Springs. Poor Ed is not having much success with tyres. It was confirmed that there were none suitable in Innamincka, which left him with no spare tyre, but hopefully, he’d be able to get one in Tibooburra.

We decided to go the full length of the Bore Track and camp somewhere along it and so after purchasing some fresh bread from the store for lunch, we once again hit the road.

The Bore Track was beautiful, with masses of yellow wattle, green grass and red sand. But it wasn’t long before Ed got another puncture. Unfortunately, of course, he didn’t have a spare, but after some discussion, it was established that John’s Disco spare wheel would fit, even if the rolling diameter was slightly different. This left John with no spare wheel (only a spare tyre), but he didn’t seem to need one!

We found a beautiful campsite just north of the homestead and it was here that Ed discovered yet another problem – a cracked rear diff housing, which had lost a lot of oil. Phillip came to his aid with some silicone and that seemed to do the trick.

Ed was off early next morning to get to Tibooburra and, hopefully, some tyres. He was in luck – they had two second-hand ones, one of which was suitable for use and the other as a spare, and it wasn’t long before we were underway again.

We stopped at the Mount Wood Museum for lunch. This was upsetting as the National Parks people are obviously making no attempt to protect the great collection of old farm machinery, allowing it to rust away or be pilfered.

All the dust we had been travelling through was beginning to throw up problems with the vehicles. Phillip and Sally can only open their passenger doors by winding down the window and using the inside handle. Even we have dust inside. The vehicle itself is very dust proof – nothing gets in when we’re driving, but as soon as we open up the rear tailgate, it pours in off the ridge on top of the vehicle where it accumulates in huge quantities – a major design fault! In fact the only Land Rover without a dust problem is my watch!

That night we had our last bush camp, at the Wanaaring Waterhole, where there were a couple of brolgas and any number of other birds.

We were away very early the next morning as the scent of home gets into the nostrils. The road to Louth was good and we were sitting by the banks of the Darling having morning tea when Ed noticed he had a puncture!! His seventh! So he blew it up and drove the 500 metres to the local garage who were able to repair it. He was third in the convoy, so two people had driven over the culprit screw before Ed picked it up! There’s no justice!

Lunch was at Cobar and then on to Dubbo for our break-up dinner at the motel.

Next day was an easy run home. We had travelled nearly 7,000 kilometres at an average of a little over 13 litres per 100 kilometres. Interestingly, the V8 Disco only spent $200 more in fuel, as although the fuel economy was not as good, petrol is always cheaper than diesel.