Simpson Desert Double Crossing July/Aug 2007 (Part 3)

(Note Part 1 & 2 is a separate combined trip report)

Part 3 - The Madigan Line

Written by primarily by Bryce Messner

Following is a Trip Report from the Magnificient Madigan Mob.

On this trip, the group of twelve vehicles split up for the second week of the three week trip. The ’A’ Team or the ‘Magnificent Madigan Mob’ tackled the Madigan Line while the ‘B’ Team or ‘The Hay River Harriers’ detoured via Alice Springs, the East McDonnell Ranges, the Plenty Highway and the Hay River to rejoin at Madigan’s Camp 16 in the lower reaches of the Hay River. The report from the ‘Hay River Harriers’ was published in the November edition of The LROC News.

A DVD of the complete trip is also being prepared - we’re just having trouble sorting through a selecting the best of over 12,000 photos that were taken on the trip. The DVD may be shown at a future GM and/or may be made available to club members.

Day One: Saturday 28th July - Sydney to Nyngan – 554km

Alan had arrived at Eulah on Friday afternoon and we settled into "The Den" for the rest of the night after we finished last minute packing and rearranging the gear. I did have plenty of room in the back of the car until Alan arrived……..ah well no good complaining this early in the trip. We were up early to get ready and wait the arrival of Roger and Judy...the rest of the group decided to head straight for Nyngan via Molong which in fact is slower and more kilometres, I guess local knowledge helps!

We were under way after our leaders arrived mid morning setting our sights for Wellington and the local pie shop for bread, buns and pies. 10km's out of Wellington we picked up on the UHF John, Bruce, Fred and Nick and we all met at the pie shop. Eventually arriving at Dubbo for lunch on the banks of the Macquarie River, a little cool but sunny, but you have to eat.
Arriving at Nyngan with plenty of daylight still left, the first order was to refill the fuel tanks and not waste time in the morning. This done we then proceeded to the overnight Van Park to book our campsite. We were given the group shelter with BBQ and all of us proceed to our domestic duties.

The park owner and his two pet turkeys and an emu entertained us as he rode around on his push bike, with the said trio in tow like faithful dogs...truly an amazing site. Somewhere throughout the rest of the afternoon and evening, Sally, Jane and Paul, David and Rod, Richard and Helmut and Laurie and Isaac arrived independently of each other.
We purchased a couple of wheelbarrows of cut railway sleepers for our fire and preceded to cook the evening meal, some went into the RSL to partake of sustenance. A nice night around the campfire was had by all, and then everyone drifted off to bed.

Day Two: Sunday 29th July - Nyngan via White Cliffs to Fowlers Gap – 651km

We were all up early, breakfast out of the way, tents packed and ready to go by 8am but alas one decided to fill up with fuel (not done the night before) and we were under way by 8.30am. Heading out we picked up John and Kylie who were staying with relatives about 10km's out of town.

Along the highway we stopped at Cobar for a comfort stop and here Fred mentions an unusual noise coming from up front somewhere in his car. After our comfort stop and unable to detect the source of the noises from Fred’s car, we head off. Further down the highway we stopped at a small roadhouse for lunch, Fred's car still making odd noises. We saw many wild goats of various sizes and colours along the highway but not much else in the wildlife arena. Wilcannia was the next stop, here a number of vehicles refilled with diesel and we noticed a F250 with a very distinct bull bar and decal "Bullbars are more important in the bush than pedestrians in the city".

On our way to White Cliffs Fred again says his car is playing up and stops for a more thorough investigation - we continue on after David and Rod agree to stay with him to lend a hand
Arriving at White Cliffs, Roger leads us up to Jocks Place, an old miner and his underground home and museum. For the princely sum of $5 we are entertained by his mad ravings of years gone by and if we meet a rich Opal Miner in White Cliffs he'll pay us a kings ransom. His spiel hasn't changed from my last three visits but wonderful to hear this Australian outback character in full swing.

As Fred is still nowhere in sight we all do our own thing exploring this marvellous outback town, visiting the Children’s Cemetery, Underground Hotel, Pub and the old mine sights.
We move out leaving Fred and David (by arrangement over the HF Radio) to catch up for our next two-night stop at Fowlers Gap Research Station. Along the track we are trying to talk to Fred by HF, and eventually make contact again and they inform us they are under way in two-wheel drive, as his front diff centre is ‘history’.

Night’s already fallen and the lights come on to sort out the dust and darkness as we search for one of Roger’s little gems of a track...a straight line of about 40kms to Fowlers Gap across country, through property boundaries and many gates, but all ligit and showing on our maps and GPS. Some do question are we on the right track, but like the rest of us we have faith in Roger and his nose for a good drive. The only shame of this magic night drive is in fact that it is dark and can't see the great country we are crossing. A couple of times we lose the track but it is quickly found again and we move on. Looking back across the vast plain in the night a line of Land Rover lights snake their way towards us...a great sight.

We eventually hit the Silver City Highway and a short drive south finds our way into Fowlers Gap. Fred arrived much later finding our marker left at the turn for him. Our accommodation is doled out according to our order, and we settle in for the night. In our dormitory, Alan and myself with Nick, next door Richard and Helmut followed later by David and Rod, a great night here had by all as we utilise the cooking facilities to their fullest. The night saw many heated discussions covering a variety of subjects but all went to bed as mates. The showers were not up to scratch but still refreshing although cold (I had a hot one but don’t tell Alan).

Day Three: Monday 30th July - At Fowlers Gap Arid Region Research Station

Again up early, although no pressure to, the showers this morning hot and ok (just) for me, and we pack in a serious breakfast of bacon and homegrown eggs from Eulah. We all sit in on the resident Research Professor as he gives a history and explanation of the centres function, it is very informative and well presented with many light hearted moments and questions from the floor, especially about Quandong growing and propagation from Laurie.

From here we all do our own thing, the majority exploring the many walks which I believe where excellent. Alan and I stay and do laundry clean up the kitchen (untidy bunch I live with) and repair fuses, driving lights and our second fridge wiring...all hopefully successful. John and Kylie also stay and rest up as they are suffering from a bout of flu and not wishing to make it worse. Fred has located and ordered a second hand diff from Adelaide to be delivered to Broken Hill on Tuesday where it will be transferred to his Defender. That will no doubt give us time to shop in the town and also pick up Alan's boots he left at home and had sent by express post by his dear wife.

Later that evening after dinner Roger had a DVD from the Range Rover Club showing hi-lights of the Hay River Trip completed some weeks ago. Also Helmut gave a talk on Broken Hill and its history telling of various galleries, museums and other local sites. Of course after breaking down there for four days with the family in 1997 we knew only too well every gallery and tourist destination intimately, but his talk was informative and useful to those listening. Helmut is a tourist operator working with German tourists specifically who are quite hard to please therefore he knows his stuff…….."but don't mention the war".
After this we all went our own ways off to each domicile for coffee, tea then bed.

Day Four: Tuesday 31st July - Fowlers Gap to Wilpena Creek – 462km

Up to the sound of reveille at the crack of dawn for most, but our room staggered out at 7.30am. A late start for sure, but we quickly got to eat breakfast, cleaned up a bunch of plates then made sure the kitchen was better than when we arrived. We met those who had not paid the night before at the office, those that had already departed, including Ros and Fred to pick up their new diff.

On arriving in Broken Hill about 10.15am we were greeted over the UHF by Sally and Jane who opted for a day in Broken Hill and Silverton rather than Fowlers Gap. Nick, Alan and I headed straight for the camping store, Foodland then a fuel top up. We also went to pick up Alan’s boots, but alas they had not arrived nor would they until tomorrow. Fred’s diff also did not arrive at the truck depot (I won't mention TNT here but will tell you later). He was told it did not make the truck on today’s run as there is only adequate space for so much and a lot of small parcels would go on the truck before a great thumping diff.

We all regroup for coffee at The Line of Lode Café, a fantastic cafe perched on top of the old mine in town overlooking the vista of Broken Hill. We discuss Fred and Ros’ situation and as they are forced to stay until Wednesday morning when the diff will arrive, John and Kylie elect to keep them company and catch up when they can. Alan asks Ros if she would also drop into the PO and pick up his boots, which she graciously agrees to do. Eventually we say goodbye for a few days and head out to Yunta, our last stop to refuel before going bush. Lunch is here and we all fill our Jerry cans and vehicles, as fuel will not get any cheaper at $1.31 per litre.

From here we turn north towards Blinman and the Flinders Ranges travelling graded roads until we turn off on another of Roger’s great two wheel tracks he has plotted for us. We travel through extreme rutted bull dust covered roads, our vehicles wholly engulfed in the fine powdery stuff. We arrive at our campsite beside the dry Wilpena Creek and nestled among a tranquil forest of River Gums, alive with the constant squawk and screech of the hundreds of Little Corella Cockatoos that abound here to welcome us.

Our fearless leader instructs us to find our own campsites, start our own cooking fires which we do and as Alan and I have the best site and campfire so the night gathering is at our camp. As all drift off to bed the odd Corella squawks at them "we will wake you at sun up with our screeching, so see ya then mate".

Day Five: Wednesday 1st August - Wilpena Ck to Farina – 295km

What a great morning - the Corella's slept in, it was quite warm, and the only noise was from those already up. After a quick dash by some down to explore and photograph the dry riverbed, we promptly move out towards Leigh Creek. We pass many groups of Emus and Red Kangaroos that both sit idly by as we pass, allowing us to photograph them at our leisure, well except for Nita who thought we were pulling her leg that they were there or even existed on this stretch of road. Later vindicated when she did in fact spot some further on.

We turned off the road to Arkaroola taking a sidetrack that took us through Brachina Gorge. Even though we could not agree on its pronunciation, it was truly magnificent. Fancy coming by here in 2003 and not visiting this gem! The gorge had magnificent river gums, every colour of red, orange and earth in its walls that made this gorge spectacular. We stopped numerous times for photo opportunities often only 100 yards apart and were stunned at every turn as some new vista enveloped our senses. I can't edify any better the magnificence of this valley and gorge from the far off rock outcrops and mountain ranges to the creek crossing flora and fauna...just superb.

We came out onto tar and headed due north to our next stop at Leigh Creek where we refuelled, restocked provisions and left for our lunch destination of Copley and the famous quandong pie shop. Before arriving here about 15km from Leigh Creek is the site of the huge Leigh Creek coal mine. There is a viewing platform looking over the open cut, a massive shovel that you are able to clamber into and play with all the workings and engines, and a giant Euclid truck to look over. Onto Copley and the pie shop for lunch, things had changed since our last trip the pies a little over cooked and the service a little slow, but we managed to get it done and we were on our way once again.

Roger had a call on the HF from Fred that he has the parts and will be under way as soon as its finished hoping to camp as near to us as he possibly can for a catch up tomorrow. Up the track again this time to Lyndhurst and a right turn out 2km to Talc Alf. This guy is something else, owner of three old Land Rovers and a current Defender. This fellow carves in Felspar a rock when crushed produces talcum powder. Well to say this chap is all there is an understatement, a raving lunatic in my humble opinion. Carrying on about Egyptology, numerology, republicanism and his version of an Australian flag. Well he lost most of us and we departed here wondering how the isolation and heat can instil insanity, but still worth a look in if you are ever in the area.

From here we moved onto Farina, an old town of some 300 people in its heyday, the last leaving in 1960. It stood there from its inception back in 1889 as a station and railhead on the Ghan Railway. Many buildings still stand some for how many years is yet to be decided, hopefully well into the future.

A short distance from here we set up camp for the night in the Farina campground and watch a magnificent sunset. Some take advantage of the onsite showers which still have warm water available from the wood fired donkey engine and accompanying head bed of rocks. We all enjoy the fire provided courtesy of the Ghan railway sleepers scattered around that burn until the next morning.

Its now 11.00pm and I'm off to bed.

Day 6: Thursday 2nd August - Farina to Warburton Crossing – 386km

We have a great breakfast just as the sun rises - it’s not a good idea having your swag close to the main campfire with Roger around. After everyone is ready we move out towards Marree. Cameron is a bit worried about his 130 and a noisy pulley and phones through to Alice Springs to order parts and service for when he arrives.
We make contact with Fred on the HF Radio and are pleased to hear that all is well, the repairs are completed and he will catch up by tonight most probably at Mangerannie.

Arriving at Marree in perfect weather we go our own way around town and then regrouping 20 minutes later. Roger and Laurie go looking for the track to Hergott Springs and return not able to locate it. The local storekeeper tells them it no longer exists. However, I remember where it is from a previous trip and drive out there radioing for Roger and the others to follow. The Springs are not what they used to be but are still there, with a new graded road direct to them rather than the round about way we had to drive last time.

We move on and reform at the Birdsville Track turn off and after photos we head now to our lunch stop at Mangerannie. We continue on over a much-improved track without incident passing a few vehicles going the other way. Arriving at Mangerannie we refill the fuel tanks, then drive down to the Hot Spar Pool for a refreshing dip and lunch.

I go for a walk along the foreshore through low bushes snapping the abundant bird life inhabiting the wetland. I photograph many varieties of waterhen, ducks and Little Corellas in fact many preparing nests in hollowed out gums.

When I arrive back to the pool, Fred, Ros, John and Kylie have arrived in his now repaired Defender, with replacement diff centre. Alan’s boots have also arrived, for which we are all happy. I duck off for a shower before we leave and come out to see most driving off north. Luckily there are a couple of Land Rovers still near and Dave still not quite packed up is now tail end charlie as we drive north to catch up.

Coming to our turn off, we head west down the Warburton Track and shortly after pull up on the banks of Warburton Creek for our overnight campsite.

We are spread out all over the place some high up on the riverbank flats, some like us on the softer meadow grass section and others nearer the river. Later in the night a fierce wind comes from nowhere sending most scurrying for their tents and beds, as it’s turned quite cold after a lovely 24+ degree day.

So ends a great day, with all of us finally together again.

Day 7: Friday 3rd August - Warburton Crossing to South of Poolowanna 1 Oil Well 189km - Moving Average (MA) 40kph

Again we are all on time, out of camp around 8.30am and on the track again. We are still on the Warburton Track when we decide that we need a break and we pull up near a marker at the site of an old drilling rig, but everything now dismantled and moved on to other fields. The best part of this stop is that we are twelve vehicles in convoy across the desert. Roger decides this will be a quick morning tea stop after being reminded (by Alan) of union rules and work place agreement on morning tea stops.Moving on we start our crossing of these mighty sand ridges and some find the going a bit tuff, nothing experience won't fix in time. We are now on the Kuncherinna Track and heading west for The Rig Road.

Roger the first victim of a steep loose sanded ridge that manages to suck him into its soft embracing crest. I drive around him and a quick snatch sees him free. A few others also fall victim but most not wanting to be bogged charge over the top in good wheel spinning form.

We move on over the next couple without too much drama, and again another tuff ascent with a three meter ‘live’ crest and a twist at the top drags Roger down again. I extract him and also John Godden a little while later, tyre pressures a little too high on this occasion. A few get over, but Nick has another charge and succeeds as does Dave and Bruce, but Richard finds himself buried to the floor pan on this nasty ridge, but he is shortly extracted.

Next ridge a particularly long steep ridge with the track totally submerged by drifting sand. At this point I may add that no one has passed this way for some time, ours the only tracks breaking the clean contours of the dune tops. We are all out of our cars with just about every male offering an opinion on how to tackle this next very real challenge. After all and sundry have walked every inch of this sand ridge, Roger decides on a go at the long way around on the least difficult looking slope with great success as he calls us up. I lead off next as Disco Duck is too far up the wrong approach and makes it easy and others are also successful.
Cameron has decided he wants to try his selected route over the ridge and steams over at good pace and with much swaying and bouncing eventually gets over unassisted. Most of us have moved on but Richard who has followed Cameron gets terribly bogged down. We have stopped some kilometres ahead, near the bed of a dry lake for lunch and half an hour later the delayed four vehicles eventually arrive.

As we are about to depart John Godden notices a flat tyre and with help from a few others manages to replace it. While this is going on Laurie strings out his wire cable HF aerial "To phone home", it was done in this manner as his whip aerial had snapped off due, it is suspected, to metal fatigue.

We climb many more ridges with magnificent views ahead of vast expanses of desert. From the dizzy heights of the dune tops we could see vast lakes with some water still in them reflecting in the now hot sunshine.

As we are driving along John J wants to know what animal has left its scats all over the track and Bruce decides on camels, which we confirmed further down by their large pad prints in the soft dry mud further along. Many dingo tracks are also plainly visible heading in our direction in the soft sand.

Further on Roger starts looking for a suitable campsite with shelters, picnic tables and loos, but as none are forthcoming we settle on a small wadi between dunes with a number of four meter thorny bushes to keep the wind at bay off our individual sites. Wood collecting a priority and we manage to collect every measly piece of termite devoured branch in our vicinity, for a reasonable cooking fire and some warmth from the cold air of the night.

For me it was dinner over and complete this day’s report while Alan organised the morning’s hot water Thermos then off to bed to be ready for our push onto Mt Dare via Dallhousie Springs.

Day 8: Saturday 4th August – South of Poolowanna 1 Oil Well to French Line – 197km MA 29kph

After a cold night we managed to pack up our camp and be under way by 9.00am after a great breakfast watching the sunrise.

Before long we came upon a few old gas/oil exploration sites with capped pipes protruding a meter out of the desert, each with a particular identifying number attached. Not too long into the trip we came to our first obstacle, a rather steep long ridge that was very deep in soft red sand. One Disco that of Richard not quite making it a number of times, critical tyre pressure again the reason for failure to proceed. A lot of bouncing up this rutted slope kept all our fellow onlookers entertained.

We came to a landmark famous on all maps "The Lone Gum", in fact not a gum at all but a Coolabah Tree (an eucalypt box tree, named after the type of bark). Here we had a very quick cuppa and look around.

Many kilometres along and many sand dunes as well we entered our section of the WAA Line Track and from here onto the Colson Track. Roger had a conversation with another group of four vehicles on the French Line heading down Colson Track. Somewhere in all this sand we passed heading east a Man Diesel 4x4 10 ton monster with five passengers and a hire 4x4 in tow on a tag along. Nick had a nature experience on this section with a close encounter with a young Dingo pup unafraid and very inquisitive, probably tracking one of the many camel tracks we see on the dusty road in front of us, but so far they are elusive to our cameras.

On our next experience section we were starting to notice a track deterioration also getting narrower with many tricky high soft sand ridges for us to challenge our selves. Many of these we had varying degrees of success with the odd Landy falling foul of the soft sand. Most of these stops only meaning backing up and having another go. Roger was on hand to show the right path just in case.

With sundown fast approaching Roger decides to pull in between two huge sand dunes with some clear ground and a bit of firewood. Even though there is plenty of wood around it was fairly light on and burns quickly. The ground a little lumpy in places but a good spot when you’re tired never the less. Looking up at our canopy of stars I can't remember seeing so many and appearing so close, close enough to touch.

Day 9. Sunday 5th August - French Line to Finke River - 209km MA 43kph

The day started again on time moving out in our new order in convoy at 8.30am heading to Purnie Bore. Ahead and over the next dune you wouldn't want to know, an almost perfect spot for a campsite…..but how do you know, when looking for a campsite, to go one more or call it a day. Anyway, it was noted for future reference, and as chance would have it until we got to Purnie Bore the rest of the spots worse than the one we had stopped at...but that’s fate I guess.

What great country we had just passed through, fantastic high ridges of red sand like waves but without the movement.
We arrived at Purnie Bore and headed for the showers and toilets. Judy was first in the showers but a cold shower was all that she could muster. Then it was my turn, same deal cold, but still refreshing and quick. Nick was next and half way through his it finally ran hot...lucky Old Nick! I guess it takes a while for the hot artesian water to come across from the bore head. A few went off to inspect the bore, while others did some hurried clothes washing in the sink provided. I had a visit from a friendly swallow.

We came over our final dune on the French Line at an intersection of tracks and a marker indicated a new and permanent detour north around the Spring Creek floodout. Arriving at Dallhousie about an hour later it was lunchtime as we pulled into the very organised Dallhousie Springs Campsite. It was quite dusty with a number of campsites complete with four-wheel adventurers like ourselves but in less superior types of vehicles.

We had 80 minutes to swim, shower, lunch and wash clothes because the order barks over the radio that we are to move out at 2.00pm. I opt to wash clothes and eat, and chase a dingo around camp with my camera. A couple of others do the same but most go swimming in the hot mineral springs. Again we moved out and our next stop is at a water tank situated in another nice camp area at Three Mile Creek (dry of course) for and we stop. We take turns filling our containers with pure clean drinking water, especially the Madigan Line people, as it will be our last chance for good water before Birdsville. After leaving here we travel over vast gibber plains each treacherous stone threatening to tear our tyres to shreds...but Mr BFG has saved the day again and no problems were encountered while crossing.

Mt Dare finally looms into view, and a welcomed fuel stop, restock of bread and essentials and souvenir and once again wonderful hot meat pies. Refueling the twelve vehicles from a single bowser takes nearly an hour as we squeeze every last drop into our tanks after 706 kilometres since Mungerannie. The young girl filling, only two weeks on the job, is in awe of us all and would like to join us. On top of this she is propositioned at least three or four times much to the foot stamping frowns of those wives present.

We finally get away around 4.30pm and we head out to follow part of the ancient Finke River and cross the border into the Northern Territory. Shortly after here we find a nice spot amid a few trees with plenty of firewood and set up camp.
Cameron's 130 has a puncture in his Cooper tyre so Guy and he set about repairing the tube, which takes quite awhile as they familiarise themselves with their new ‘Tyre Jaws’. David has some concerns about his other rear trailing arm bush (he used the one spare we were carrying on the other bush only 24hrs earlier) and its repair and thinks he may need to go to Alice Springs with Cameron for repairs and catch up later. John and Kylie also decide to go to Alice as their Defender needs looking at, cutting in from five to four cylinders and maybe needing a new injector. All I had to do was take my rear door lock out and wash in diesel to clear out the dust, as I was a little tired of climbing in to open the door from inside.

So ends another great day averaging about 22 degrees. As I sign off its 6.7 degrees and I'm into the swag.

Day 10: Monday 6th August - Finke River to Camp 2+ - 207km MA 42kph

We had a departure ceremony this morning as the Hay River group were going to leave us later in the morning together with John and Kylie. Before we departed David decided that his rear trailing arm bushes wouldn't make the Madigan Line run. After some discussion and considering all alternatives, John Godden agrees to swap the bushes from the rear of his Defender with David’s shot ones. But firstly we use the sat phone to order one set of bushes from Graeme Cooper and a second set from Karcraft to be delivered to Alice Springs by different carriers. The ‘shot’ bushes could then be replaced by BigJon, an AULRO member and very competent Land Rover mechanic in Alice Springs. John’s not happy about driving the 300km to Alice with crook bushes but as he has to go and have his injector fault rectified, agrees to the exchange which would enable David and Rod to continue on the Madigan Line. This also meant that the Madigan Group didn’t loose David, our well equipped and experienced medical officer.

Moving out after completing the trailing arm bush exchange, we head up the track into the start of sand ridge country again. After a couple of very high ridges we came out of the sun and down into a valley and the heritage listed Old Andado Homestead. A real Australian icon, Mrs Molly Clarke, owns this homestead, no longer in residence but recently moved to the Alice. Her Husband died over thirty years ago and left Molly, now in her nineties, to manage the property alone. Molly also lost her son in a plane crash about the same time as losing her husband.

This homestead must be seen to be believed! Imagine in your Sydney suburb, an old lady moves out leaving every possession in her home except her clothes, leaving every door open. How long do you think it would take before it was emptied, ransacked and destroyed? Well this homestead is intact just as she left it – refrigerators, HF radio, china cabinet, old sewing machines and numerous nick knacks, everything you can imagine is still in its place.

Out the back is a full workshop, blacksmith shop, axes set in logs, fuel, oils and generators etc. Nothing is stolen or vandalised, you’re able to walk freely through the whole house and homestead complex which is truly amazing and wonderful that outback tourists do not violate this wonderful woman’s home.

Apparently she occasionally visits for a day or two when she can.
The sign to Alice Springs beckons the Hay River group as they say goodbye and move out for at about a week until we rejoin at Camp 16. We move out about half-hour later, as I have to reattach my flag that Carry had found and returned to me after it had succumbed to a low branch earlier. At last after many gates and long stretches of varying countryside we move through gibber to the sand dunes again. Before this though we visit a reserve for the most rare of Australian trees – The Acacia Peuce.

Off the side of the road a tough reminder of the country we are in, isolated and without mercy.

Through here we see many camels and a number of red kangaroo, caught unawares by our sudden appearance. John and I stop to photograph bright purple flowers growing in profusion throughout the unusual gums. We make a detour to a low peak known as The Twins. We walk up to a cairn in honour of Madigan and a rusty tin with messages stashed among the rocks, business cards, a bar of soap, and other bits and bobs, but no sign of Madigan’s note.
We are back into the sand ridge country again, these ones quite soft with very steep exits. One particular steep climb has Fred back peddling until we decide to let down our tyres to 20 PSI in the front 25 PSI in the rear. This works a treat and a happy Fred is on his way again.

Arriving at camp we quickly set up amongst a nice stand of Gidgee trees and get a roaring fire going for dinner. Later talk around the campfire centres on the days activities and tomorrows adventure for we are now travelling in Dr. Cecil Madigans footsteps. Its not quite as cold tonight but the fire is keeping me cosy, the snorers are drowning out the night crickets and I wonder if I will be able to sleep...I wish I had some port...good night all.

Day 11: Tuesday 7th August - Camp 2+ to Camp 6+ - 89km MA 16.4kph

Our routine down pat now everything running to schedule like a well oiled machine. Everyone well and truly ready at our designated departure time, we move out to the next Madigans campsite on our list. However, before we departed into this harsh environment where, unlike your regular Simpson crossings, no tracks have been made by exploration companies, we all did some checks and minor servicing such as greasing drive shafts and checking suspension bushes. Fred replaced a stuffed shock rubber and it was good to see Sally crawling around under the 130 amongst the sand and grass seeds with the grease gun.
We travelled through unbelievable country unlike anything I had previously experienced.

We were all winding through one section of long dry grass, among varying styles of tall trees, not unlike an African Safari, expecting giraffe or Cape Buffalo to break cover when out of the blue a huge Scrub Bull came from nowhere charging my Defender. I guess he decided I was too big to tackle so peeled off after I managed to get a few fleeting shots of this behemoth with the Canon ……..camera of course.. After changing some underwear I was on my way again.

We were now entering some undulating rocky country and as we forged ahead through this untracked wilderness we couldn't help notice the screeching protest of hundreds of Cockatiel parrots and Budgerigars. We thought that with all this birdlife around there had to be some water nearby and it wasn’t long before we came across a virtual oasis. We just had to investigate and explore this area where runoff from the surrounding hills collects after the rare occurrence of heavy rainfall.

What I noticed first was the smell of death……..the carcass of a dead camel was seen. Further exploration around the tall green grass revealed at least twelve dead camels, many of which had stopped breathing a long time ago - no doubt perished in time of drought when no water was present here at all. Huge amounts of Zebra Finch were present, flying erratically from one tree to another when disturbed. Hundreds of Budgies also swarmed to the waters edge and just as quickly raced back to cover in a nearby bush. More Cockatiels and the odd Bourke Parrot were also observed.

Laurie found some bush tomatoes growing profusely as well. Although not quite ripe, he did taste them and so far he has suffered no ill effects and is still with us. Hard to move away from here but we didn't have enough film or cards to take the amount of pics we would have taken if we had stayed. After all this semi lush country and after traversing part of the Colson Track, we turned east and immediately encountered the sand ridges we had come for. We were starting to climb ridges reaching up to eight metres in height. Both Laurie and Fred failing to proceed on one nasty one, were both looking to lower their tyre pressure a little further.

As wild life is in short supply around here I was surprised to spot a pair of magnificent red kangaroos, just as surprised to see us and high-tailing it to escape our convoy. We are starting to travel into extremely remote and hard country that I have dubbed "OO7 Country"…….."shaken not stirred". These tracks are now slowing us down to 10kph average and second gear high seems to work best although I am often in 1st high. Bone jarring is the proper description to adequately describe the travelling from here on as we make our way across the spinifex strewn swales for the rest of the day. The ultra red colour of the sand is set off by the azure blue sky and hi-lighted by the variety of flowers we are coming across, purples, yellow, mauve, green, white and pink.

Eventually camp is found 11km east of Madigan Camp 6. It is found between high sand ridges with more than ample firewood with medium height trees to shelter us from any wind that may arise. (Trip leader’s note: Finding a good level campsite suitable for a group of seven vehicles among the Spinifex covered swales is not an easy task. However, I had been advised of this one during my research for this trip and was very thankful for the tip.)

Our campfire again a hi-light of the night with another fantastic meal cooked and devoured listening to the best of Burt Bacharat, awesome night and very peaceful under a canopy of a zillion stars.

Day 12: Wednesday 8th August - Camp 6+ to Camp 9+ - 65km MA 12.7kph

Another great day ahead as we break camp this time a little later than usual, around 9.30am, as we are making good progress and haven’t experienced any of the tyre trouble we were anticipating. We are driving though fantastic scenery as we come to another of Madigans campsites, Plenty of pictures are taken of all these marker posts of the campsites that Madigan camped at on his 1939 Scientific Expedition with nine men and nineteen camels.

A bit of a problem for me, I hear a noisy thunk under the front of the car, and Sally, my passenger today, says it sounds like a shock absorber. Well sure enough it is, One BRAND NEW Koni has started leaking and the bottom RUBBER HAS DISINTERGRATED. The rubbers are replaced but the Koni is left insitu. These tracks are taking their toll……..now down two Koni's, two tyre punctures, one broken HF aerial, one exhaust flange gasket and one Defender on four cylinders instead of five.

We have a bit of fun on just about every sand ridge now as multi boggings occur. No one is immune, but all reverse up to usually go over on the second run. A few adjust tyre pressure down...20 PSI all round, David gets to use his sand ladders frequently - he says he has them so he may as well use them.….and they work extremely well most of the time.

David got bogged on one steep section and extracted himself easily and I failed see how he couldn't just drive off. So I came to the place he stopped and also stopping could not then proceed myself. It was very deceptive, looking very solid but anything but.

Three other make vehicles from a Victorian Club overtook us while we had lunch at Camp 8 and they got out to have a chat with us. Roger reminded them to tell their mates somewhere ahead that they left a heap of rubbish at one of the camps that he had to clean up for them. I've never seen such short shorts on such a tall lanky bloke, looked a little humorous.

Over many dozens more ridges, some 150 today, and thousands of bumps in the swales to jar every crook elbow, back and neck I possess and some I didn't know I had. Its no wonder this route has been described as ‘The Spinifex Moguls’. We make camp between the ridges 4km east of Camp 9, not ideal (lack of wood) but looked forward to by all after the rough and slow travel today. We have a small fire from wood carried by Roger and David before pushing off to bed, and the end of day 12,

We hear from the Hay River Group via HF radio, relayed through the Charters Towers VKS base, and Roger replies with the message that we are travelling well and that we will see them all Saturday at camp 16 on the Hay River.

Day 13: Thursday 9th August - Camp 9+ to Madigan’s Claypan – 32km MA 11.4kph

Today, Alan and I volunteer for tail end charlie and give others a chance to see a bit more wild life. We arrive at one more of Madigans camps and have a quick cuppa. I wander around and spot a small red skink and get some great pics of him.

The sand ridges although large don't seem as severe as we have previously experienced – maybe we’re all getting used to them. Being at the end has its advantages in that you can stop when you like for some great flora shots and of course those excellent shots of the red sand ridges. We lunch in a forest of medium height trees of mulga and the shade quite welcome as the temperature hits 25 degrees. Pressing on and arriving at another of Madigans camps we discover a number of pickets with a logbook to write messages and names of those that pass this way. Also on the outside of the box are car decals of various clubs like the Range Rover Club and Toyota Club etc. I go to my car and carefully lift off one of my club decals and carefully place it in a very conspicuous place and write on it the date and Roger Riley Trip Leader.

Down the track we look for and find Madigans Claypan and from here we search for Madigans Oval. While I'm driving through the swale between the dunes looking for a camel that doesn't exist Roger announces, from his vantage point on top of the ridge that indeed there is a real camel heading north up the swale. I drive to as close as I can and turn off my engine and begin my stalk.
Carefully taking advantage of the down wind and low scrub I manage to approach to about 20 metres. He is a very large healthy bull camel indeed, he is aware of me but not sure what to do. He stares in my direction and moves closer trying to pick up my scent which he can't do as I am down wind and out smart him. Disturbed at what he can't get at he starts to move off, this after about half an hour of tension of the stalk. He heads to the top of the dune and stares one last majestic glance back at his antagonist and disappears.

Of course there are others playing out their version of the stalk as well but not as near as my close encounter. (Trip Leader’s Note: This bull camel didn’t seem real impressed with the presence of Laurie’s Disco and proceeded to ‘mark his territory’ - almost giving the Disco a ‘Car Lovers’ wash.)

We head back a quarter click and set up camp at around 3.30pm and I manage to stalk a lesser opponent in the shape of one of many flocks of budgies and manage some very close up shots of these wonderful green and yellow parrots (they are the smallest parrots).

Plenty of wood ensures some great cooking. Roger has made date scones for every one in his camp oven. David has a spot of bother nipping up his wheel bearings and later on gets assistance from Fred and his magic touch. It’s great being able to camp early, relax and not have to tend to major vehicle problems or repair numerous punctures. The pre-trip preparation is really paying off with the vehicles performing exceptionally well.

Day 14: Friday 10th August - Madigan’s Claypan to Camp 16 – 85km MA 13.6kph

Moving out on time we again take up the tail end charlie position. Up on the sand ridge John is finding it hard going after those before him have churned up the soft sand, so backing down we drive further along to climb onto firmer ground. Laurie appears from nowhere across the face of the ridge and proclaims we left him behind, but he should have moved out with the others as I was waiting for Carry to get back to her car for a few minutes until we moved out. He was very silent while we were on the CB moving out …….. very fishy! The track started out with a couple of high ridges but they were reducing in height as we ventured further along. On the high ones we have a few problems again with tyre pressures, but get aid from David’s plastic fantastic.

Also the track was deteriorating rapidly and was filled with ruts that threw the suspension from side to side violently. Also I noticed that the flora was getting more sparse and drier looking with little or no green vegetation. Very little wildlife was seen between the Madigan campsites visited today. A fantastic large dune with multi ridges is also tackled along with extensive ‘old growth’ Spinifex in the swales.

Lunch was had on a large claypan under Fred’s fantastic South African awning that goes out without poles and is self-supporting. The day was quite hot reaching 28 degrees at lunchtime. We struggled along over the ‘old growth’ Spinifex for quite a few kilometres with maximum speed of 11kph before we came back into better country with greenery showing its face again. (Trip Leaders Note: The overall moving average for today – 13.6kph - is somewhat misleading as the run from Camp 14 to Camp 16 is quite fast compared to that from Madigan’s Claypan to Camp 14 which, without a doubt, was the slowest and most arduous of the whole trip) .

As we got closer to the end of the ridges we came to a "T" junction on the Hay River where the B team will come down to meet us tomorrow. We leave a note for them at Camp 15 and head further south. We find Madigan’s "blaze tree" at Camp 16 with many posts and signs from previous 4WD clubs and individuals leaving quite well made engraved/stamped plaques to record their crossings. One noted in honour of Range Rover life members Lindsay Johnstone and Richard Asquith who passed by here in 1981.

A little further down the track we find our camp for the night alongside a huge sand ridge. After setting up and before the sun set, we "The Magnificent Seven" stride to the highest dune, red wine bottles in hand for a group photo and to celebrate our success at the crossing that only very few have achieved.

We wait here for the B team to catch up and look forward to tomorrows sleep in at last.

Day 15: Saturday 11th August - South of Camp 16

Today a day of rest and its wonderful to sleep in until 8.00am, better still to not rise until 8.30am. Not a lot doing by anyone today except maintenance checks on the cars. I have to sort out my leaking jerry cans, so pulling them all out, the only option. Clean them all and put them back can't see the problem other than that was discovered the other day. After they are all reinstalled diesel is still seeping out from somewhere so I suspect a split seam. This is not the case as it turns out but two tiny holes in the side of the jerry can. Alan and I pour the fuel into the Defender and while we are at it we pour in the other four cans as well. The tank takes about 90 litres, it would have been fun to see how close to Birdsville I could have driven on the remaining 35 litres that was left.

Then we checked the bearings and they are a little loose but will wait until Birdsville. While doing this I find the second Koni has leaked as well, but the rubber still intact although misshapen, I put another rubber on.
I also go to refix the flag...a couple of ties have fallen off, while doing this I snap the flag off at the base, then have to hacksaw the broken section, reglue and its fine again. While I have the vice out Fred and Laurie borrow my workbench and vice to repair his broken HF whip aerial successfully. Bonnets are up all round camp and Alan and I catch up on some sleep after lunch with a power nap.

Later in the afternoon the B team arrive from Alice Springs via Jervois and Batton Hill and the Hay River. Unfortunately without Bruce and Nita who went back to Alice with master cylinder problems and will hopefully catch up at Birdsville? Nick, a sight for sore eyes, arrived with a case of Old Beer for Alan and I, we knock a couple down warm, we can't wait.
We finish off a hot day around Roger’s campfire as it’s cooled down a lot, with a few harmonica tunes from Fred.

Day 16: Sunday 12th August - Camp 16 to Beachcomber Well – 92km MA 20kph

Now that we are together again, it’s back to routine of moving out on schedule again. It’s about 180km to Poeppels Corner and many sand ridges to cross. We pass an amazing vista of red dunes as we progress through country alive with flowering grasses and other sections dry as…….but never the less, stunning in beauty. We even pass a magnificent double dune and a log that looked like a large rabbit from a distance.
Then it had to happen, the sand ridge from hell! Very high indeed requiring many participants at least a couple of goes, one even five or more as he tried every possible angle, then followed Nicks path and was over. There were a few needing snatching as they bogged down in the soft sand.

I tried a section and didn't get far at all only metres off the track requiring a back up to try another route. This I did on this occasion successfully, near Nick’s track over the top.

As tail end charlie again today, I go back to see how Cameron is progressing as he can't make it up the normal track. I stop on a dune to watch and help if needed, then he makes it OK, I go to move off and find myself bogged down. I try a couple of times scraping sand out by hand but can't get that far, David and Rod come to the rescue with David's marvellous plastic sand ladders….... I'm out easy as 1,2,3. We progress along, some finding difficulty on more ridges but I opted to reduce tyre pressure even further and use high first and second very successfully and not getting stuck again.

Along here we photograph the only flowering Grevillia on the track along with many black kites, zebra finch, lizards and scarlet robins (which I've yet to capture). Carry sees a Brolga, we didn't, and if here its on the very tip of its range preferring the more northern areas (John has picture). I can smell beer, so we stop and check but can't find anything amiss. Further along I can still smell it and checkout the very rear and find one pierced can and on top of that our remaining four eggs smashed and leaking every where…...what a mess. We clean up as best as we can and leave the outside bits until we can get to a hose.

Camp is finally found near Beachcomber Well in a top little spot with plenty of wood once again. After dinner I was supposed to inflate my tyres as we now have a ‘road’ for 70 odd kilometres, but its now too late and will have to do before breakfast tomorrow.

Day 17: Monday 13th August - Beachcomber Well to QAA Line – 107km MA 33kph

We broke camp early and prepared again for whatever the day may bring. Well we didn't have to wait long as Roger yells out that he has another lone camel running up the track in front of his Defender.

We race up to get a closer look and following Roger indeed there is a huge camel trotting along merrily. This goes on for a few kilometres and we are able to take many photos and I manage a three-minute movie before he heads to the bush, unfortunately before all can see him. Further on we came upon a vast clay pan and in the distance we see salt making it look like a far off snow field and just as deadly if foolish to venture onto it. I stop a little way on and get some great pics.

On this last stretch we emerge out of the Simpson Desert Park at a sign proclaiming Birdsville to the left, Poeppels Corner straight ahead. We motor straight ahead winding through dunes, sand and tough mallee trees eventually coming to the walkway out to the corner. Even way out here where Northern Territory, Queensland and South Australia meet there is a copper impregnated timber walkway so we tourists don't get our feet dusty. A lot of photos are taken here of course.

From here we wind through some tricky country aiming our sights for Birdsville. Along this section are a number of fantastic clay pans that look very barren from the top of the sand ridges. Beside this track we come across a hand made sign declaring the Northern Territory and Queensland border erected by the Range Rover Club. The sand dunes and ridges spreading for miles to the horizon are spectacular as we can see the track almost gun barrel straight as it disappears into the haze many kilometres ahead.

Somewhere out in the sand a cry comes over the UHF that a vehicle in front is dropping fluid. We all desperately check our cars and it is Richard that proclaims a fuel leak at the rear. We motor on until we catch up with Roger under a few shade trees where we can inspect the leak. Roger and Fred jump underneath and find a leak in the high-pressure fuel line, carrying diesel to the engine. Rather than keep going the 130km to Birdsville it is decided to overnight camp here, repair the leak and continue on in the morning.

Richard, Helmut, Fred, Guy and Cameron get busy unbolting inner rack systems, towbars and fuel tanks. Lots goes on until the exact location of the fracture is found and by rubber tube sleeving, hose clamps and covered in two pack epoxy putty, the leak is repaired. Now we wait until morning for the epoxy to set before testing. We burn more wood to stay warm and see the night out.

Day 18: Tuesday 14th August - QAA Line to Birdsville – 146km MA 29kph

First thing after breakfast is to start Richards car to see if the repair is successful, and it is working a treat and gives no more problems for the rest of the trip. Again much of the same with endless sand ridges but the colour now lost its deep red for the more clay coloured sand.
Pic 32

We come across an abandoned motorbike frame standing upright in the sand, a testament to the dangers of outback travel and probably carrying spare fuel in plastic containers. Many kilometres further on, Eyre Creek is our next stop where we take many pics of fantastic blue flowers, Little Corellas and a crow making a nest, in fact sitting in it.

Down from here the track is covered with water and a very long detour has to be negotiated in order to proceed. After a couple of failed attempts at some smaller sand ridges we set our sights on Big Red the mother of them all. Roger ambles straight up and calls us on, Laurie is next but fails a number of times as does John and Kylie but they make it up.

My attempts a dismal failure as I run out of steam a number of times and let others have a go. Fred fails once but is then up, Nick, Cameron, the girls, Richard all succeed on their first go Richard like a charging bull, John Jenkins two goes then me again.
I fail again and back down and a friendly Disco driver comes over to give assistance. He tells me to go down to 10 PSI, which I do. I thought my tyres were down to 15 but when checked they are 22 and 20. On this attempt I make it up but not the way I wanted…....I botched a gear change from fourth low, crashed into second and pulled up and over to loud cheers from our guys and a group of Victorian Land Rover Club members waiting to descend.

Alan and I don't hang around but head to Birdsville for resupply as we are near out of food and its 3.30pm. We restock and head down to the Caravan Park but all the cabins are gone so we are $70 richer and take a tent site. The showers are to die for and its great to be clean again. Alan washes clothes as well and we head off to the Birdsville Pub for dinner. Much table moving follows as we rearrange the tables to seat 20 odd weary travellers and we are thankful for the great tucker and service we get from the staff. Back to camp to load the days pictures and type this report, then bed.

Day 19: Wednesday 15th August - Birdsville to Nattere Creek – 223km MA 63kph

The morning started with a walk down to the river to capture the many waterbirds on display in what could be described as a walk in a giant aviary. Up to the showers for a second time in twelve hours and it was great. The others moving out to the bakery for breakfast but we had already started our own. Some went to the working museum that was apparently fantastic and worth every dollar. I went up to phone home, the first time in two weeks, after this we had coffee at the bakery. While there we snapped magnificent Sturts Desert Pea in full flower in their garden.

We moved out at around 11.00am for Cordillo Downs, travelling now on good graded road, a veritable highway to what we have endured during the past week or so. Passing a road gang of graders and many tourists heading to Birdsville we battled the thick white dust left by those in front.

Around a bend we arrived at the Cadelga Outstation ruins where we had lunch on the banks of the river and it was totally full, with abundant wildlife flying all around. Cameron informs us he will leave us when we stop for our camp as he wants to get home ASAP to prepare his car for a visit to Graeme Cooper on Monday. We later find out that Graeme is booked out on Monday and Tuesday but Cameron sticks to his plan to push on.

We stop in the bed of a dry creek bed while others catch up and we hear the distress call from John and Kylie that they have noises from the front drive train. Fred, Roger, Nick, David and Rod are in attendance and onlookers enough at the moment. As things develop we all go back to give support as we look like camping nearby. The problem is the front diff blown like Fred’s was, so the axles are removed and the car transformed to 2WD, enough to get back to Sydney.

Roger wants to drive for a couple of hours to catch up some time and also find better accommodation than where we are. But only after half an hour or so (its now around 5.15pm) Roger finds a large flat area a couple of hundred yards off the road on a dry creek bed. It has plenty of wood and we have spread out along its banks. Spag bog is on the menu and it was so tasty you'd swear you were in a restaurant. With the help of some red wine donated by Roger we were completely satisfied. A quick visit to a neighbouring campfire then it was off to bed contemplating how far we are able to drive tomorrow and reach Cordillo Downs.

Day 20: Thursday 16th August - Nattere Ck to Warri Warri Ck - 405km MA 64kph

Leaving this great campsite we head of to Cordillo Downs half an hour down the track. Looming into view we are confronted by the spreading homestead complex, including the heritage listed woolshed. Inside has an array of old machinery and farm tools, and outside old trucks and a couple of old steam tractors and a visit from a very friendly blue healer.

Moving along through some extremely dusty but very picturesque country and in fact a number of fabulous red sand dunes, we detour off the road to explore the old Arrabury Homestead after crossing into Queensland.
Pic 36
Being left to the elements and looking worse for wear; we had a wander around looking at the out buildings and various machinery lying around.

Heading further east then south we pass a dingo not caring that we are there. Passing through country very reminiscent of the Painted Desert with whites creams and reds and mountainous escarpments against pale blue sky. We pass a number of triple road trains going towards Brisbane that cause us to stop and pullover and get covered in bulldust.

Coming to Coopers Creek at the Bourke and Wills Bridge we stop for lunch and enjoy two shows, one of the many species of birds that included ducks, black kites corellas, crows and pelicans. We drive into the sun in spots but veer off to the south bypassing Innamincka and Moomba gas fields in preference to the Bore Track. At around 5.30pm we pull over for the night just out of sight of the road. The vista of sunset is superb and goes well with our dinner, lights out at 10.30pm many are already snoring, they just don't make them tough any more.

Day 21: Friday 17th August - Warri Warri Ck to Bylong – 608km MA 81kph

We arose to a magnificent sunrise and we sat eating corn flakes around the fire, as it was quite cool. Before we can move out Laurie spots a problem under Dave’s 130. Dave checks and finds that his front drive shaft uni has failed. I roll under to have a look and get passed a spanner and end up removing it for him, reminiscent of my trip to WA at Easter. The group has moves off and we are to catch up which we do after about 20 minutes.

We are heading towards Hungerford and travelling along a well-maintained dirt road looking for our turnoff. We hear over the airwaves that our route across the Bulloo Downs road to Hungerford is closed due to recent rains resulting in water across much of the road. Our best option at this point is to turn south towards Tibooburra crossing into New South Wales at Warri Gate. We stop a number of times to take pics of the scenery and the many flowers along the track including the best show of Darling Pea in the last twelve years. We eventually catch up at Tibooburra and proceed to fill up not at the first station as its empty. Back into town for a pie and Cappuccino we are left behind to catch up when we can.

Alan and I find another group of Sturts Desert Pea growing and out of town in the fantastic boulders a very pink native flower we also photograph. We turn towards Wanaaring, which is some 239 km away, and we catch up an hour later at the lunch stop.

We take time out at the end of the pack to photograph shingle back lizards and stop at a lake to take pics of the waterbirds.

Arriving at Wanaaring Laurie peels off to buy ice creams for Isaac and himself. Just out of town in a small lagoon John and Carry have stopped to photograph a pair of mating Brolgas and I too get some great shots.

Down the track we arrive at Bourke where we fill up our depleting diesel. We reform and Roger leads us off to Byrock and to the Mulga Creek Hotel for our overnight stop. Alan and I manage a room that has beds and a shower, the money no object. We eat a great meal served by wonderful hosts and staff and thoroughly recommend a stay if in the area.

A few beers later and some chit chat with friend’s sees us off the bed at 10:30pm for an early (ETD 8.00am) start for the run back to Mullion Creek.

Day 22: Saturday 18th August - Bylong to Orange – 441km MA 84kph

A great pub breakfast was had and we booked out and were on the road by 9.00am. A fairly easy run down the highway, not quite as many as we started with, Laurie and Isaac moving out at 4.00am for urgent family matters in Sydney. We stopped off at Nyngan for pies and coffee also bread rolls for our lunch along the track later.

Arriving at Mullion Creek for lunch it’s quite cool and a breeze is not helping, after lunch everyone said their goodbyes and heads for home. The sheep I thought would mob everyone for a handout, look on from the hilltop, and the baby goat born only a couple of days before is looking so fragile as she waddles around her enclosure on spindly legs that don't give her much support.

Its great to be home but I will miss the desert, the sand, the dust and my travelling companions, thanks to Roger and Judy for their leadership and to all those who contributed to the experience.

The Madigan Line - report by David Williams

This trip was organised and ran by Roger and Judy Riley. A great trip showing more of the splendours of our Australia in areas that would be foolhardy to travel alone. The centre of Australia is RED and the Simpson Desert covers more than 17 million hectares of it! This makes for great photography, and in good company, makes one of those trips that I know I will never forget.

Trip Preparation

This trip sounded interesting. I had not travelled to the centre and the opportunity to drive on the Madigan Line was not to be missed. Remote travel is not new to me but desert travel was so what was needed to prepare for such a trip?
Over six months, multiple emails where sent and two pre-trip meetings attended to ensure everyone was prepared and had some idea of what was needed in way of maintenance, spares, supplies, communications, foods, maps, permits etc.

Good trip preparation is essential and many evenings where spent searching the net for information on Cecil Madigan and his Scientific Expedition in 1939. Others had travelled the Simpson by 4x4 and left accounts of their trip and the photographs…….

We were to experience both the southern and northern parts of the Simpson. Drive over multiple dunes and swales between the dunes. Long distances some involving bad corrugations. On the Madigan Line we were to expect tough and slow going for five or six days.

For tough, remote area trips thorough preparation of vehicles, equipment and participants is paramount.
Vehicle Preparation - Have you considered what it would cost for a vehicle to be recovered from an isolated area of the Simpson? What would be involved in a recovery that needed multiple sand dunes to be traversed? Read some of the forums and you will see accounts of people who have spent $thousands just for recovery to a local town plus repairs and even tray-back travel back to a major service centre.

All vehicles were to have a full major pre-trip service. Any car with 200,000 or more needed to consider a new clutch. It is essential that all wheel bearing are serviced. If a broken-down vehicle has four wheels working then recovery should be possible.

Tyres

All tyres needed 75% tread or more. Many brought new tyres for the trip ranging from MT and AT’s. I had a set of Nankang MT’s which had done a few trips already. My concern was that they were tubed and with long distances in sand and low pressures might risk tube damage. I had spare tubes. Interestingly, there were no tyre issues for the complete trip. One member’s tyre lost air due to a probable loose valve, reinflated and no further problems. One tyre had a puncture before the trip and was attempted to be repaired on the trip one evening. Sometimes reseating a tyre on a rim is not going to happen so a tube was placed in the rim.

I took along with the spare wheel another tyre up on the roof rack. Some had two spares. One advantage of this trip all being Land Rovers is that the wheels could have been used from others in the convoy.

Suspension and Dampers – Shock absorbers will be expected to get hot and that some might fail if pushed hard enough. I had Bilstein’s which have been on for a year or so and decided to leave them on. I took with me a set of rubbers. They handled very well and at times where very hot. I didn’t experience any dampening fade or oil loss and will continue with Bilsteins’.

Tools and Spares

The Mount Dare website, http://www.mtdare.com.au/ is very helpful with ideas on what should be carried for desert travel. WEIGHT IS AN ISSUE so consider what others are bringing and share the load.

Some tools are a must with Land Rovers such as 9/16 combination spanners for flange nuts on the propshaft, 30mm spanner for trailing arm bolts, 52mm box spanner for bearings (socket for later models with high torque settings), torx55 for gearbox fill plug, circlips, voltmeter. Most bolts are now metric on Land Rovers.

Be familiar with towing procedures in your handbook. For towing, the propshafts need to be removed and if differential damage then the drive shafts need to be removed, so check that tooling is adequate. Loctite, gasket glue, and various oils. Complete set of filters, definitely air and fuel filters. Various hose clamps. Ground tarp.

Means of repairing tyres. The tubeless repair kits are magic when familiar in its use. Tubes and plenty of talcum powder. A good quality air compressor is essential.

IMHO one of the weaknesses of the Defenders is the clutch master cylinder. I carry a spare including a slave cylinder.
Set of wheel bearings and hub seals, shock rubbers. A workshop manual is handy and if already taking a laptop for photo downloads, consider a workshop download which can be purchased from the AURLO website.

A large jack plate is essential. 2-3 tons of Defender on a jack sure sinks into the sand very quickly!

Recovery Equipment

Again consider weight. No winch was used on this trip. Usual snatch straps, shovel etc. Adequate recovery points front and back, you know the drill!

Those who did the Madigan Line were required to have special recovery points front and rear to allow attachments of solid tows. Tandem towing involving a number of vehicles was considered an option to recover a vehicle in the difficult sandy terrain.

I brought a set of MAXTRAX which are expensive. I now very much recommend a set if travelling on your own. Very simple to use in the sand especially if the stuck vehicle hasn’t kept the wheels spinning till stuck past the diffs.
A sand flag is very useful as you can see them in convoy when the vehicle in front was over the dune and travelling by watching the flag move away.

Very little use of the snatch straps was needed as in most cases it was just a simple reverse and reapproach at a slightly different approach or gear.

Fuel and Water

Again, the Mt Dare web site is very informative. They have a formula on recommendations of how much water to carry. I carried 90 litres in various sized containers. This is definitely a good way to travel as often filled up 20 litre containers with bore water for washing and leaving others with clean drinking water separate.

Fuel was another issue. No way would you carry jerry cans of petrol inside a car. Diesel with a higher flash point is much safer to carry. I removed the rear seats and made a bracket each side of the seat box. This enabled me to strap down the fuel and water containers securely in the back. The Defender comes with 75 litre main tank. I have an auxiliary tank of 70 litres and carried 3 empty jerry cans which where filled at Mt. Dare and emptied into the main tank over next few days.

Communications

UHF Channel 13 was the main channel till we became aware that this was also the emergency channel around the Birdsville area where we went to channel 14. In the Simpson all use channel 10 as you will hear other groups using the tracks and confirm their direction of travel.

HF Radio with membership to the VKS737 was invaluable in passing on messages. One issue that we had on this trip was that most of the sets were Codans which had been programmed such that scanning was not an option. It meant that when communication was required over longer distances the frequency was not usable all hours of the day. To say that you will be on channel 2 might work now but later in day when someone is trying to contact you, it is not an appropriate channel. Scanning would have solved a lot of these issues.

The Barrett is a much easier radio to use in my opinion. We got around passing messages onto each group by leaving messages with VKS737 and a big thankyou goes to the operators of this service. Outstanding support for the outback traveller.

We probably need another communications training day within the club to demonstrate the use of scan and channel choice etc.

Satellite phones …… well I have a Qualcomm and found it absolutely useless. Often on turning it on I had to wait for satellite service. When full service came on it would not hold for long and calls would cut off. When trying to contact people to arrange shipment of parts to Alice Springs it was a nightmare. They talk about satellite degrading, well the service was unusable and I will be cancelling my contract as they can’t provide a service!

HF Radio phone was easier to make calls on provided the person you where calling has some basic idea that only one person can talk at one time. Connection in the morning to dusk was normally straight forward but after sunset it had a lot more static and interference.

First Aid and Emergency Plans

My background is that of Emergency Nursing so I took on this role. I researched the RFDS web site for information and contact numbers. Contact can be made with RFDS with any medical incident for advice and retrieval if needed. Contact can be made with RFDS HF frequencies and alarm button. This again demonstrates the need to be familiar with the HF radio in remote travel.

All cars should have there own basic first aid kit, including bandaids and Panadol.
Once RFDS notified, medical retrieval can still take multiple hours so my kit is a little more extensive than most.

All participants were required to complete a basic medical information sheet with contact numbers etc. Two copies in sealed envelopes. One copy to the trip leader of each group and another given to me. These are returned or destroyed unopened at end of trip. All medications need to be taken by participants with an extra supply in case of weather or breakdown.

Fortunately, there where no medical incidents on this trip. However a motor bike rider from overseas was found confused, probably dehydrated, by a group at Poeppels corner. We heard about this while listening to the schedules on VKS737.

For major breakdowns it would be handy to have some contact numbers to source mechanical parts. Graeme Cooper in Sydney was a great resource person for this. Also Bigjon from AURLO working at Sutton Motors was also fantastic. From reports from those who went into Alice Springs for service found the guys really knew their stuff.

A thank you to John and Kylie Godden. They had problems with oil in the injector harness and found that their engine was running rough intermittently. A decision was made that they needed to get this fixed in Alice Springs so they where kind enough to swap over my broken rear trailing arm chassis bushes which had collapsed. They had a very nervous run as the rear end was sloppy untill the bushes where replaced. If they hadn’t swapped the bushes then I would have missed the Madigan Line part of this trip.

Thanks Biggles. (Trip Leader’s note: And we would have been without a very competent and well prepared medical officer!)

The Madigan Line - report by John Jenkins

Getting prepared for this fantastic adventure took a lot of planning, support and help from various LROC members. We had a 51 lt fuel tank, 51lt water tank, new Koni shocks, B F Goodridge All Terrain tyres, front tow hitch, and new roof rack fitted. There was too much action to mention everything in our report, but the highlights for us were -

• The thermal pool at Mungerannie maybe we just liked to be clean for a short while
  The Warburton Track - just noticed that the Westprint map says easy travelling. Fortunately for us the track had not been used for some time and there were many sand ridges with live crests that made the going anything but easy, but instead a minor challenge and a good refresher course on crossing sand ridges. The most important lesson being getting the combination tyre pressure and momentum right.
  
• The combination of red sand ridges, flowers, and birds always makes trips in the desert interesting for us. We like to stop for the many and varied photo opportunities that desert travel offers, particularly the desert colour tones of red, green, yellow and the blue sky every day.
  
• Dalhousie Springs, another opportunity to soak and relax in the heated water.
  
• Old Andado Homestead, and the opportunity to wonder through the homestead and feel what it would be like to live within the Simpson Desert. Don’t rely on the meals and accommodation mentioned in the Westprint map, we didn’t.
  
• The Madigan Line from Old Andado to Camp 16 on the Hay River.
  For seven days we had the desert to ourselves, except for about 20 minutes when we shared a lunch time at Camp 8 with three other vehicles. I finally convinced Carry that we could sleep under the stars, sans tent. There was no moon, and the sky was magnificent.
  
  We finally got to see a big bull camel near Camp 11, where we stopped early to take advantage of a great campsite north of the “Clay Pan”. I was wandering through the swale taking photos of the bird life when the camel came across us. I was able to get as close to a bull camel intent on protecting his patch as I would ever want to. There were a few times when he looked ready to charge.
  
  The birds were also magnificent in this area, with one flock of over 500 budgies. Unfortunately they were between us and the setting sun, so the photographs are not very good. Where do the birds go to drink, we didn’t know, and neither did Madigan.
  The drive was slow with many sand ridges to cross. A drive well worth doing, but allowing a few extra days next time so that we have time to soak up the atmosphere and smell the flowers.
  
  • The drive south along the Hay River from Camp 16. It was like driving through an aviary with landscaped gardens, though certainly on a very large scale.
    
  • Birdsville for the first shower in two weeks.
    
  • Arriving home to a cold wet windy Sydney definitely the low point of the trip.

Thanks to Roger for organising the adventure, and the rest of the crew for making it memorable in many different ways.

The Madigan Line - report by Ross Meyer

The Diff Story

It would be a challenging trip - long miles, outback roads, sand dunes, soft sand and along the Madigan Line, no tracks, just plodding from Spinifex hump to Spinifex hump, so much thought, time and effort was invested in vehicle preparation. As we set out, I said, ‘If this Landie loses a screw on this trip, I’ll kick its tyres!’ Well, day 2, just out of Nyngan, I had to start putting on my boots.

We were making good time along the black top, when there was a sneeze. Funny noise, wonder what it was? A bit further, a cough! Still running, dials OK. Then, a bang!! Engine vibrated violently, gauges OK, but the hazard lights were flashing. This was a ’stop, get out and check’ noise. Nothing dripping, nothing hanging down, everything seemed in place. We’ll carry on and see what happens next.

Approaching Wilcannia, the noise gradually developed a pattern, a whoosh, whoosh sound. We turned off towards White Cliffs and another bang, hazard lights flashing. Stop for another check around and Rod and I swapped places, so there was another set of ears to puzzle over our noises. Well, that did it. The noise increased in volume and constancy and seemed to come from the front left wheel.

The roadside mechanical team - Fred, Rod and Dave, soon had the wheel off expecting a wheel-bearing problem. No! Must be the other side. No! Oh, oh, could it be the front diff? Yes! So it was axles out and the drive shaft was removed, so we could be mobile again and a night drive to join the convoy at Fowlers Gap Research Station a bit north of Broken Hill. Roger’s headlights guiding us in were a welcome sight.

What next? Monday Fortunately there was a pay phone we could use (no mobile cover here). Graeme Cooper suggested a wrecker in Adelaide as closest spare parts option. Yes, Adelaide could supply but the whole front assembly, not just a diff! Beggars can’t be choosers. The wrecker often sent parts to Broken Hill by TNT, so we should arrange delivery with them.
TNT call centre in Brisbane had never heard of Broken Hill. Where is it? What’s the nearest town? Western NSW? Oh, I’ll put you onto the Sydney office.

Where’s Broken Hill? Western NSW? The closest depot is Enfield in Sydney!
Telephone the wrecker again. Do you have the address o