Victorian High Country
27th December 2005 to 7th January 2006

Written by Bryce Messner unless otherwise indicated

Day One Tuesday 27th December

Every body was on time at Pheasants Nest Service Centre our designated meeting place other than Dennis & Barry who were meeting us at Wadonga for lunch.

The trip down to the border was uneventful & we promptly met up with Dennis & Barry and had lunch.

Close by is the best disposal store in Australia and we went about exploring & making a few purchases before heading of to Myrtleford.

We passed through Myrtleford, crossing Buffalo River Dam & onto our first section of dirt.

On Buffalo River is one of the nicest campsites you could find any where the only draw back no toilet for the ladies. About a kilometre from our turn off, David L in the series comes to grief with a kangaroo.

I had Reece in the car with me & he spotted it first coming out of the bush narrowly missing my car & crossing the road behind me. Then a spectacular skidding on the gravel, and “A over H” it went, recovered & confused back across the road straight into David’s right hand guard & what a mess.

Fortunately the roo was killed instantly (well sort off) & we continued onto the site and our first day was over.

Day 2 Wednesday 28th December

After a restful night around a warming campfire, we were all ready & under way by 9.00am.

We headed south for awhile until we came to our right turn to start our climb to the top of the ridge & a great little lookout from a helipad & the view spectacular as usual. Going up here David’s series 3 had some problem needing a snatch that was to plague him also later.

We arrived at Lake Cobbler in time for lunch & a rest in this lovely spot on the banks of a man made lake that looks pristine and natural but isn’t. It was made by loggers as a water supply area and now is the home of ducks, fish & a myriad of aquatic life for the area.

From here we move on towards our overnight bivouac stop. Not without some very knarly tracks to traverse to get there.

We arrive at Pineapple flat for our campsite, not as cramped as last year, we had plenty of room to camp on a great riverside spot, a good night had by all and early to bed for some.

Day 3 Thursday 29th December

Again our move out on time, not by force but a great bunch of campers up & ready to get on with it.

We crossed the river & started our descent up to Circuit Road, turned left then right & onto the track that would take us to Craig’s Hut.

We managed this task OK, & were the only ones at the hut. A clear bright morning presented itself unlike last year covered in fog. I instantly noticed after the short walk to the hut, “a lot of improvements”.

The hut has new walkways & a wheel chair ramp, the “Craig” horse yards no longer there, pulled down, also many other tidies up projects, now looking like a tourist destination after all.

Our track to Mt Stirling we found not far from the parking lot & we all turned right for the top. An easy plug up the slope, and then a walk to achieve the last 100 metres in height to the summit at around 1730 mtres & unparalleled views to Mount Buller ski resort across the valley.

We move onto Mansfield for lunch, shopping & time out for a couple of hours.

Eventually we head towards Woods Point and seek a respectable campsite on the banks of the Goulburn River. Most campsites along here are two-wheel drive access so the very goods are mostly taken over Christmas to New Year, but you need a knack & luck. After passing a couple of likely ones, I U-turn to a great covered & grassy spot on the river capable of at least 12 campsites. Looking around I decide this is it, but why isn’t anyone else not here.

Taking the bit between my teeth I decide to erect tents at once, encircling an old fireplace, with great access to the river. It’s a hot afternoon & around 3.00pm so a few go for a swim.

The fire is under way for our nights meal, and alls calm, then the most terrible explosion from the fire place, & after the cloud of dust & ash subside & a few undie changes we wonder what happened. As it turned out the last campers had buried & stove gas bottle just under the surface to catch us unawares.

Day 4 Friday 30th December

Moving out leaving this spot in pristine condition (better than we found it), we head to our next track, the mighty ascent up German Spur Track. Not a hard track, but ever upward on shaly loose rocks most of the way & on top plenty of mud.

David Lee’s forward momentum is not forthcoming, we suspect his suspension to hard, so a hard decision not to snatch him up is reached & we make arrangements to catch up at Woods Point.

We travel over these great tracks & have a ball eventually coming out onto the road to Woods Point at a mountain pass & some tracks needing exploration next year.

We find David resting up in a little picnic area on a tiny running stream at the back of the garage we have lunch here.

We travel a fair way along where again we must part company with David as we head into the bush, into some very hard country for our overnight camp. This section, tracks like Jericho, Red Jacket, Aberfeldy & McGuire pass under our tyred vehicles & are very worthy off- roading tracks but not alone.

After descending an awesome steep grade we come to the Macalister River, which we cross & head to our campsite about 50 metres from the crossing.

Very comfortable for just our five vehicles.

Day 5 Saturday 31st December written by Dean Hagan

8.40am and already the temperature is climbing to the mid 20’s. We break camp after spending it along the Goulburn River, the water in the river is crystal clear, an enjoyable swim the night before was most welcome after travelling through so much dust.

Within minutes of leaving camp Bryce leads us up a steep rocky ascent which last year saw him exit without a clutch. Low range and diff lock selected as the convoy of five showering each other with dust made it’s way to the top only to be confronted with a very steep decent. Low 1st was selected and a feathering of brakes as the vehicles one by one edged their way to the bottom, tyres slipping on the loose rocks, before grip was again found.

Waiting for us at the bottom was David Lee who was unable to travel with us the day before due to what was thought to be suspension troubles, he was able to take and alternative route and rejoin the convoy the next day.

Turning left onto the bitumen we make our way over the Macalister River into Licola. A leisurely morning tea and a refuel of water and petrol were enjoyed by all. Bryce had to make emergency repairs to his rear door latch mechanism that wouldn’t operate when the door was closed. Turned out to be clogged with dust.

On the road again and back over the Macalister River Bridge, (Bryce making a comment about the lovely bathers in the river below) and onto the Alpine National Park. We take a turn off to Black Fish Camp and came across Michael’s Hut, pull in for an inspection, further on we stop to look at Kelly’s Hut. Just fantastic, huge fire- place and big fat slats of timber used for laying the bed- rolls upon and outside plains of grasslands where cattle used to roam.

Continuing on we traversed through open gates, Bryce detouring to check out various sites for the night’s camp but calls over the radio exclaiming someone else had stolen “his” site.

Entering Carey River National Park, we camped the night at Horse Yard Flat not far from a running creek, the boys and I take a dip but it was soooo cold it was in and out in a flash for me but the boys braved a dive. Meanwhile the others decided to take an afternoon siesta before the night’s activities, somehow crackers found their way into the camp and the New Year was welcomed in with a bang.

Day 6 Sunday 1st January 2006 written by Barry Elliott

Another early morning departure at 8:30am had us leaving the Horseyard Hut Campsite.

We visited the local Ranger Station near the Pinnacle. The Ranger, Mr Smith gave a great insight into his job, as a spotter looking continuously for fires and the various steps of action required when a fire is spotted. We all signed the station visitor's book.

Ranger Smith told us about the large number of visitors who come to the High Country without a map and thus run out of fuel.

He has had many an argument with people demanding that he give them some of his fuel from his car - "No Way!" He needs the fuel in case he has to evaluate to get away from fires in his 4WD - he also told us that if he cannot get out by 4WD the alternative is to be picked up by helicopter. It flies by with a rope towing below which he has to quickly slip over his wrist. The helicopter flies off with him hanging on the rope 100 feet below.

Moving on and along the Billy Goat Track that was very spectacular, we commenced our decent to Eaglevale.

The campsite at Eaglevale is a large flat area adjacent to Scrubby Creek. It was very windy with lots of dust being blown everywhere with the large wind gusts.

The banks of the Mighty Scrubby Creek gave us some protection and relief from the strong winds and biting sun.

Parking our chairs in the shade of the large River Gums, our feet parked in the cool running waters made life bearable again.

Young Reece and Mitch soon entertained us with a rock bombing competition of each other in the water.
Mitch was outstanding. His pin point accuracy in repeatedly hitting Reece with high flying very large creek pebbles was spectacular and drew applause from everyone (except Reece!).

By early evening, the winds had calmed. This made cooking; eating and relaxing much more civilised for humans and the flies.

An enjoyable campfire session completed another great day on our Tour.

Day 7 Monday 2nd January 2006 written by Dennis Clarke

After breakfast it was time to say goodbye to our campsite at Eaglevale and to Dave Lee with his Series 3 Land Rover.

Dave had been experiencing traction problems with the hill climbs and decided to return home via a less mountainous route.

With our fearless leader Bryce leading the way up, over and down a very, very big mountain, with great views into the valleys on either side. We soon entered the historic Grant area.

We proceeded along the banks (sides of rivers not the financial ones), of the Crooked River to the township of Talbotville.

All that remains of the old goldmining town is a large open area, which is a very popular with 4WD campers.

In its heyday (1860s) Talbotville was a small but thriving gold mining community. It had a bakery, butcher, hotels, restaurant, druggist shop, (2) doctors, newsagency and a library.

The last store ceased operating in 1947, which Bryce remembered from his first trip to this area in search of ice for his beer.

One of the 4WD tracks has 23 river crossing in the space of 10km.

There are various fruit trees planted by the early settlers, which are still bearing fruit today - a story has it that these fruits were grown to make various wines.

One of the most popular attractions in the old town was the two composting toilets. Just up the hill, some 300 metres are the old cemetery with its historic graves.

We held some camp spots for Flash and his touring band.
They finally turned up very late in the afternoon and proceeded to give all the various reasons and excused for their late arrival. That night we all sat around the campfire and continue to exchange various 4WD stories, legends, and a bit of bulldust all in good fun and very, very entertaining long into the night.

Day 8 Tuesday 3rd January 2006

This was a lay over day of rest & I managed to complete a weeks washing.

Others went to count the 23 river crossing track (I went as a passenger with David Williams) others just lazed about in the glorious sunny weather some went swimming in the cold river.

Day 9 Wednesday 4th January 2006

Well I wasn’t supposed to write this day but here goes. We moved out saying our good byes to Flash & company & crossed the Crooked River heading west on our way to the Wonnangatta Valley. It wasn’t a hard climb out in fact quite easy (won’t come this way again), and somewhere looking down into the valley we reached our objective track near the helipad.

Down we descended on a fairly good track heading to Humpfrey River crossing. At the bottom a couple of option were available, so we turned left the quickest way to a campsite on Wonnangatta River.

Travelling along the river track minding my own business as you do down here, I crested a rise & down on a flat section of track & off to the side was a set of blue & red flashing lights attached to Vic Police 4x4 something (you know one of those other brands).

Hard to believe but we were all about to be breathalysed in the High Country. Breathalysed we were, & it turned out to be training weekend for some rookies, but real never the less. I told them we had a scout leader with us, & probably some kind of deviate, so they obliged by frisking the likely looking cub leader. They were quite nice guys who posed for photos, but only cause we were clean, I’m sure we would have found out what a Nissan rides like if we had gone over.

From there we visited Bryce Homestead ruins/site the cemetery and found a great campsite minute before a couple of Extremes did eying our site enviously. We right on the river literally which was good, as it was very hot now, and another good night in camp saw out a perfect day.

Day 10 Thursday 5th January 2006 written by Mitchell Hagan

We were out of camp by 8.40am and started driving through the Wonnangatta Valley. As we were driving along, Bryce decided to take a sidetrack that in the end led to no where. We kept driving up the road and then hung a right onto Riley’s Track. We drove about 300m down the track when Bryce suddenly stopped, he had seen a tiger snake and wanted to pick it up but the snake had escaped before Bryce got to where he saw it.

We drove through a few water crossings and started a steep climb up Riley’s Track. At the top we stopped for morning tea along the Humpfrey River.

Moving on we drove down this very steep track full of dead trees, Bryce said he hadn’t seen before. Continuing on we came across a huge tree that was about 100feet long and 3 metres wide. Bryce got out his chain saw and an hour or so latter we were in our vehicles again, this time ascending a very steep track that none of us had travelled before.

At the top of the hill we took the Mt Selwyn turn off. Dave lifted his front wheels about 35cm off the ground as he clawed his way to the top. The view from the top was amazing. Driving back down we came across two Queenslanders who had ventured out into the wilderness without a map; Bryce gave them directions and told them to contact us channel 13 should they need further assistance.

Twin Jeep Track took us to Mt Murray lookout again great views of the surrounding areas. Along the way we met three bush walkers who were not happy to see vehicles in the area.

On reaching the summit of Mt Murray Dad noticed Barry had staked his tyre so a quick tyre repair was carried out and we were on our way.

Continuing on we ran into Flashes group, we knew they were in the area because of the CB chatter, Bryce would interrupt Flashes group asking Flash if he was lost (he knew he wasn’t he just fooling around)

Eventually we were back onto bitumen and heading towards Mt Hotham and stopped at Dinner Plain at the pub for a drink and coffee late’. That night we camped in Omeo Caravan Park and enjoyed a long hot shower.

Day 11 Friday 6th January 2006 written by Dean Hagan

Ah Fong Loop Walking Trail

After resupplying and refuelling at Omeo we drove the short distance from the centre of town to Ah Fong Loop Walking Trail, once the site of a very successful gold mining lease. Ah Fong registered the site for mining in the late 1800’s and by the end of the lease the mine had extracted 6000ounces of gold. Most of the Chinese workers returned home, a handful stayed behind and a small cemetery records those who once worked the area. Descendants still live in the area today.

Continuing NE we stop at McMillans lookout for a 360 view of the Omeo district and continue our way to the very small township of Benambra where we turn right taking the Lime Stone River Track stopping for lunch along a very peaceful but fly infected creek.

We continued along to McCarthy’s track, Davies Plains Track, Charles Range Camping Area, Indi Wilderness Zone and finally Tom Groggin Track. The views and corridors of tall trees some dead and many coming into flower, just magnificent.

Dave came over the radio and announced there was a great camping spot just after passing through the gate, Bryce said there was no gate here, Dave insisting there was a gate and announced it when he drove through it. Bryce said that wasn’t a gate it was a barrier and a real gate wouldn’t be a straight bar. Anyway camp that night was at Buckwong Creek.

Listening in on their CB’s were Bob Bignold, Dave Glover, Rhonda and Terry Boyce, they were camped a few KM up the track on the other side of the river, they came down for happy hour, it was like having a LROC get together.

Through the late afternoon & night we had a visit from quite a few kangaroos coming in for a few morsels of bread supplied by Barry, great to see them this close.
The campfire was one of the best we had with plenty of wood on hand.

Day 12 Saturday 7th January 2006

Our last day, we packed with exuberance, broke camp & headed to Jindabyne for lunch & some great pies at Nuggets Crossing Shops.

We all said our goodbyes here and went our separate ways. I stayed a few more days not wanting to go home…maybe next time?

Thanks to all the guys on the trip, a great bunch with no hostilities just there to enjoy all the High Country had to offer including great company, see some of you next year…three have booked already!