Victorian High Country
27th Dec 2005 - 7th Jan 2006

Written by

Day 0,1 Kris Burdett
Day 1 Jane & Sally Parfit
Day 2 Josh & Leslie Pryke
Day 3 Maureen & Rudi Mank
Day 4 Glen Davoren
Day 5 Michael & Anne & Henry
Day 6 Kim Nolan
Day 7 Kris Burdett

Day 0 Getting there
After spending the night camped beside one of the tracks (and Flash nearly being run over at about 11:00pm) we took the opportunity to move into a spot by the river near Keebles Hut after its previous occupants moved on. Then we made ourselves comfortable in the shade of the trees to await the arrival of our fellow travelers.

By lunch time I was beginning to have doubts about having packed enough insect repellent. They sure breed big flies around here.

The troops slowly began arriving and setting up camp. As we monitored the radio we heard the unmistakable voice of fellow club member, Fred. He was hoping to make a rendezvous with some other LROC members at Tom Groggin but was unable to contact them. Fred and Roz decided to join us for the night and try to make contact with the missing party the next day.

Towards the end of the day the braver among us took the opportunity to cool down in the river (Brrrrrrr!!!). As night fell we gathered around the light of a citronella candle. It was to hot for a fire and Flash hadn’t collected any wood).

After a long day we were all in bed well before Flash turned into a pumpkin. Tomorrow our adventure would really begin.

Day 1 Swampy Plains
After a relaxing Christmas Day we set out for Swampy Plains on Boxing Day. The plan was to get there early and claim a spot at Old Geehi for our troops who would be arriving the following day. Like others who have traveled on another Christmas Day- there was no room at the inn. The Victorian Nissan Club were firmly entrenched around the hut and an old acquaintance Kevin Weir was there with his High Country 4WD Club. The Range Rover was also planning to make Old Geehi its base for a weeks driving.

There wasn’t much camping space to be had in the whole Swampy Plains area largely due to the fact that National Parks had not got around to slashing the grass around the usual camping areas and recent good weather meant that the grass was up to waist height in most places.

Day 2 - Limestone Creek to Pinch River
Thursday 29th December 2005

After a cold night, we woke to another warm and sunny morning, had breakfast and packed up camp with the accompaniment of flies, flies and more flies. We left Limestone Creek campsite at 9.20 am.

The area is still recovering after the bush fires a couple of years ago, but the re growth on the trees has put freshness into the bush.

We turn onto the Cobberas Trail, a lovely windy and undulating trail that takes us to a height of 1450m.

The scenery along here is really nice and a bit further on we stop for morning tea for half an hour.

Whilst traveling a couple of vehicles have caught up to us. At this point the track is narrow, 1 vehicle wide, so the other vehicles tag along. Once we get to a wider part of the track we pull over to let the vehicles pass, one of which is a Disco.

At 2.00 pm we stop by a nice flowing steam to have lunch and the flies decide to join us once again. I must remember that before we do another extended trip like this I have to buy some hat nets. Half an hour later we set off again, to encounter a very steep and loose accent. Thank goodness for that little button with the green light. We all make it to the top with no difficulties. A short while later a message comes across the radio “I forgot about this one, sorry guys, another steep climb.” This one was the same if not a bit worse than the previous one, but yet again we all made it, event free.

We turned onto the and traveled along side the Snowy River. The dirt roads in Victoria are very smooth and noticed a difference when we crossed the border back into New South Wales, they seemed to deteriorate considerably.

At 4.30 we arrived at the Pinch Creek Picnic/Camping area to set up camp. It was a pleasure to see that a new set of toilets had recently been erected. After we set up camp we went down to the Pinch Creek for a swim, it was cold at first but very refreshing. The Pinch Creek is Alpine fed, so we were swimming in clean crystal clear water. When we got back to our tent we had to move as we had put it near a bull ant’s nest and we were in their way.

After tea we congregated around the “Coleman fire Light” as there was a total fire ban in force. By 10.00 pm a few people had gone to bed, when a car pulls up and 3 guys get out. A few of us looked at each other wondering what we were in for but all was well. They were a couple of Brumby Wranglers who had had a few and were checking out the various camp sites. Half an hour or so later after a few tall stories (on their part) and quite a few laughs they bid up good night and headed off into the night. This was also our cue to bid each other good night and head off to our tents to sleep and get ready for the next day.

Day 3 - Pinch River to Jackson River
Set off at 9am from PINCH RIVER camping area, to the lookout over the SNOWY RIVER, for photos, then onto the BARRY WAY which has the SNOWY RIVER on the left hand side of the road for a long way, it was very picturesque and when we were winding up the mountain he scenery was magnificent. onto MCKILLOPS BRIDGE for lunch, it was a very hot day, after lunch we went onto the DEDDICK TRAIL it was a very long with steep ups and downs type of trail, through rainforest, we saw the bush coming back to life after the bush fires of a couple of years ago, it is definitely a track i would recommend for the scenery alone. one of the last steep sections of the trail was 2.3klm long very interesting and challenging.

At the end of the DEDDICK TRAIL we turned onto the YALMY ROAD and eventually the VARNEYS TRACK and down to our campsite for the night the JACKSON RIVER. Everyone had a very welcome swim in the river, we were told by some other campers that the temperature was 44c.

Thank you Flash for another day of challenging 4x4 driving and a great camp spot

Day 4 – New Year’s Eve – Jackson’s Crossing to Swifts Creek.

The call came at about 9,”Glen, do you want to go Tail-End Charlie again? No worries Flash”. And so it was that we left Jackson’s Crossing on our way to Swifts Creek. We headed away from the river across the grass plains, and then climbed up a few hundred metres through the trees and dense undergrowth.

To the amazement of us high country first timers we were then in an area of rain forest style vegetation, followed by open farm land.

After a leisurely drive through the National Park and State Forest, morning tea was enjoyed at the picturesque local park in the small town of Buchan.

Back on the road to Bairnsdale, our party split in two at Bruthen. Seasoned High Country travelers. Rudy and Maureen along with Sally and Jane turned right and headed off direct to Swifts Creek, to claim our camp for the night. The remaining travelers. continued on the Omeo Highway and headed off to the “Big Smoke”.

Arriving in Bairnsdale Josh, Lesley, Nathan and Katherine said their goodbyes and left the trip to head for home. Everyone else went in search of Woolworths Plus or Coles Express (can’t pass up the discount vouchers!). The Coles Express crowd were even entertained by a rather strange woman who managed to park her car sideways, at an almost perfect right angle to the bowser (only in Victoria!!).

The plan was to spend an hour in Bairnsdale before heading off to camp. However, everyone was overcome with the site of civilization and cars and people headed off in all directions – refueling…..shopping……..lunching. It didn’t take long for the one hour to turn into two.

Our arrival in Swifts Creek started with a stop at the ice cream shop (a welcome relief from the heat), and then on to an oasis – shady trees, grassy campsites, cooling stream, laundry, showers, and flushing toilets!! Our thanks to Rudy & Maureen for organizing the camp fees and doing a recee of the pub, while the rest of us spent the afternoon lazing away in the creek and taking advantage of the facilities.

The night started with pre-dinner drinks and nibblies around the “campfire” (a rather large citronella candle). Wanting to do our bit for the local community, a small group (the bold and the beautiful) headed off for a most enjoyable dinner at the pub. After a wonderful meal and a couple of raspberry cokes (and beers) we ambled back to camp for more culinary delights and some deep and meaningful (and some not so deep and meaningful) conversation, to await the New Year.

After a full day and well wishes for the New Year, the party dispersed not long after midnight.

Day 5 Sunday 01/Jan/06, Swifts Creek to Swifts Creek.

12 midnight and Happy New Year! A few glasses of bubbly and wine after an earlier dip in the creek at the camping ground brought 2006 in, around the “Citronella candle Campfire”.

We left Swifts Creek at around 9.15 am for a day trip, heading out along Swifts Creek Road to Omeo Rd (Great Alpine Rd).
9.30 am – Emergency call from Leaders vehicle – CRISIS – Flash’s hat had blown off his head across the road and down a grassy embankment. A rescue party was raised and the hat was soon retrieved. After this crisis we assembled at the scenic lookout up the road. The views were spectacular and after a few photos we were on our way again. The next stop was at an historic marker where Angus McMillan, a pastoralist and Gippsland's Pioneer Explorer, had built a homestead in 1840, of which only the original chimney now remained.
Soon after we turned right off the main road onto Haunted Stream Track. This is named after Ballarat Harry and his mate, who had some serious business disagreements, which resulted in Harry’s grisly murder and his body parts being floated down the river. Harry’s ghost was seen regularly by the river, which became known as the Haunted Stream.

We stopped for morning tea in a nice grassy area with a Happy New Year sign (bush style) from 2004.

Kim took off in his vehicle up the hill to investigate the ruins of Stirling, an old Gold Mining town, only to find he had a flat tyre, which he changed up there on his own.

This gave the rest of us time to wander around the relics of the old town. Just a few old stone walls and chimneys remain. It must have been a pretty tough life.

Back on the road in our air conditioned vehicles, as the day was really warming up, we went along Joes Track with some 34 creek fords

The creek crossings and native vegetation were beautiful, with rainforest and lots of tree ferns. At one stage we looked up to see whole hillsides absolutely covered in tree ferns.

At our lunch stop, the weather was cooling down and we could see big black clouds approaching. We headed back towards Swifts Creek along Boomerang Spur track, Dorothy Cutting and Brookeville Rd, passing logging areas then farms.

It was still 45 degrees when we returned to camp, putting a lot of stress on our fridges and recently acquired supplies from Bairnsdale. However a cool change soon arrived, temperature dropping to 19 degrees, with some rain. Sally and Jane phoned home and it was still 45 degrees in Sydney.

Despite the fear of wet tracks the next day, I think we all enjoyed the campfire in the shelter with the sound of rain on the roof, on that New Years Night.

Day 6 Swifts Creek to Talbot Ville

The weather has changed dramatically from the 40 degree days that we have experienced so far. A southerly late last night has dropped the temperature down to a brisk 12 degrees and we have a low cloud cover which threatens rain at any moment, could be an interesting day.

The track today runs east west with a big climb to Mt Delusion, so there is some concern about rain, we will see how we go.

09:00 Off we go heading out of Swifts Creek camp on time, or so we thought. It seems that most of the group (with the exception of Sally and Jane) couldn’t get past the bakery which was only 100m from camp. Several pies and other yummies were consumed while waiting for some of the group to top up with fuel for the trip ahead and we eventually got moving at about 09:30.

10:30 Traveling along Swifts Creek/Omeo Road we made our first stop at “The Bunker”, a Mountain Hut which had a bunker nearby for protection during bush fires, a smart idea considering the terrain.

11:00 Oops! Our first mechanical, Glen’s disco with a loose exhaust. A short stop for morning tea at another forest hut while Glen does some quick repairs, we are soon on the road again.

13:00 So far the track has been mildly winding through the forest and generally easy going but it has begun to become a bit steeper. Now comes Messmate Spur track with a great downhill, YeeHaar!

14:00 What goes down must go up, or so they say. Flash is in the lead and finds a good uphill which is a bit loose. Up he goes with some difficulty. I’m next, should be no problem for the Toyota. I get to the loose stuff and start to slip and slide. Another go and the same thing, perhaps more run-up, no stuck again. Doesn’t look that hard, what’s wrong. Try winching up, yes looking good but oh no, the earth lead wont handle the load, s@#t! Reverse back down the hill, lets try chains, everyone is worried now, how will we all get up? While putting the chains on we send Rudy up in his 80 series and as soon as he turns the first corner I realise what my problem is. Dooh!!! The centre difflock is not engaged!! I let them put the chains on anyway since they worked so hard to put them on, engaged the centre diff and walked the 100 series up the hill with no problem at all. (Yes you can all have a chuckle now) How embarrassing, this must be good for the dill of the day award I think. Everyone was relieved and all made it up the hill with no further difficulties and we finally get to have a short lunch just over the next hill.

16:00 Matheson and Mt Erwin Spur Track are a bit of a nightmare with fallen timber all over the track. Nearly four hours to wind our way through the trees having to stopping many times to clear the track ahead where we couldn’t go around. The chain saw got a bit of a workout as well.

20:00 Finally on to the Dargo High Plains Road and out from the fallen timber but wait there’s more. We turn onto McMillan Road on our last leg to Talbotville and you guessed it, me again with a shredded rear tyre. Chris goes on to Talbotville while all of the group jump in to help change the tyre (possibly taking this rare opportunity to get themselves on film helping a Toyota driver out..Just kidding!). Tyre changed and we are on the road again.

20:30 Camp at last!!! To welcome us are another 6 vehicles from the LROC who are also touring the high country.

Everyone set up camp and we all finished this long and eventful day with a chat around a “real” campfire.

Day 7

Jacinta, the kids & I spent a couple of weeks in Victoria around Xmas, visiting familiy and friends in Melbourne, the Grampians (just before they went up in smoke) and finally 90 Mile Beach in Gippsland.

As usual, we'd organise to meet with the club on our way back to Sydney and spend a few days camping in the high country. This year, the meeting point was at Talbotville. Despite having organised to meet with Falsh's group, it is actually Bryce's crew who were camped there when we arrived. Flash & Co arrived at around 8:00pm that night after having suffered a number of punctures and other misshaps.

As Talbotville was to be our camp for 3 consecutive nights, we all set up comfortably and went straight for a dive in the river.
In the morning, those who were keen went for a wee drive up around the Grant Historic Area while others chose to stay put and enjoy the day at base camp. It was the first real opportunity for me to test some of the Terrain Response feature of our new Disco 3, and most of the conversation on the UHF was about how the new machine behaved.

Unfortunately, none of what was thrown at us would have challenged even a Freelander, so I would have to wait a little longer to find out if the hype surrounding this new Landie was justified. After a quick lunch at the township site, we went back to camp to relax and enjoy a cool swim while others continued on for another 4 hours drive around the area.

I can't remember what the debate was about around the camp fire that evening, but I'm pretty sure it was not politics because there was no great argument between Flash & Bryce.

All in all, a very relaxing day enjoyed by all, in particular the kids who spent most of their time in the water.
Herve.

Day8 Crooked River-Billy Goat Bluff Track

Woke up to another fine day but Thank God not to the 40-45C temperatures we had been having.

Looked out our camper window to views of sun shinning on the cliff face, the Crooked River taking its morning run to only a river knows where and a family of cows taking a morning stroll through our campsite - a nice way to start a day.

Left camp @ 9.15am and before we had travel 1km had crossed the Crooked River 6 times & then turned left onto the Pioneer Race Track – site of the old Talbotville Race Track and you can still see where the track was.

Onto Scrubby Creek Track and down a short but steep hill to Colin Hut where we had morning
Tea whilst waiting the return of Herve & Michael, who went into Wonnangatta for fuel. During morning tea Herve informed us that the lady at the service station told him to be careful of the river crossing as it had a deep hole. The first river crossing was OK but the second was a different story.

When we arrived at the crossing Herve volunteer to walk the river . It was looking OK until
Herve found the hole. With the water level about 3ft deep and a very short but steep
incline out of the river we decided not to take the risk as Herve didn’t have a snorkel on his new
DISCO 3 & Sally & I had not yet got around to sealing the box under the driver seat which
contains the computer.

So back up the Scrubby Creek Track , pass Wonnangatta – had someone not just been here -
along Dargo Road then turning right onto Trails Track heading towards Billy Goat Bluff Track.

Some steep section along this track but as I remember from a previous trip with Roger Riley it
was going to get a lot steeper. Stopped for lunch about 12.30pm and no sooner had the boys
filled their stomachs and they were buzzing around Herve’s new Disco 3 like bees to a honey pot.

Along Castle Hill Track which has some very steep sections – very interesting when wet, then
Up Junction Track. Got up the track Ok this time but on Roger’s trip had to be pulled up as the
Track was so wet and along the Pinnacles track which leads to the fire tower.

Stopped here for about a hour which included a short walk to the fire tower for one of the best views
of mountain ranges you will see. After this we started the long steep climb down Billy Goat
Bluff Track, which was very disappointing this time around, as it had just been graded. Still can’t
complain too loudly as the track is still opened, if it was in NSW it would have been closed and locked away from the public forever.

Back at the camp site about 6.30pm with plenty of sun light still left to get dinner cooked & then finished off another great day of 4Wdriving by sitting around the camp fire with our fellow LROC mates.
Jane & Sally Parfit

Day 9
After bidding far well to the Matysics who were heading up to Broken Hill and the Maurins who were off to Jindabyne and taking some last minute photos of the Talbotville cows we headed off up Basalt Knob Rd South.

Having recceed the trip last year we knew the climb out of the valley was long, steep and windy but it wouldn’t cause any problems as long as the road was dry – WRONG!!

Oops! Flash had failed to proceed. After a couple of attempts to scramble up and over a particularly gnarly piece of track (pedestrians needed 4 limb drive in the soft shaley terrain), Flash reversed back to allow Glen, with his and maxi drive engaged, room to pass him and snatch him over the offending obstacle.

As with many recoveries we drew a crowd of onlookers. While waiting for Kim to come up the hill one of them suggested to Flash that reducing his tyre pressure would enable him to proceed. Flash’s reply- “But then I would have to pump them up again” .

All other vehicles completed the climb without incident. Onlookers were particularly impressed by the ease at which Sally and Jane’s 130 climbed the hill.

Landrovers – 3
Toyotas – 1

We then take a leisurely drive along the ridge where the stands of bunt out Mountain Ash and, as we climb higher, Snow Gums are surrounded by the soft reds and greens of the young new trees. We glimpse spectacular views. Then its turn left through the gate and head along the Blue Rag Range towards Mt Blue Rag.

The track along the ridge is narrow in many places. Some of the climbs were steep and scrabbly. There were a few white knuckle moments for some passengers and drivers.

During last years recee we drove through low lying cloud and could see nothing but the track in front of us.

We had heard that the views from here are supposed to be some of the best in the High Country. We were not disappointed- 360 degree views and the vista goes on forever. What a lunch spot!

As we travelled towards Mt Blue Rag we were able to catch snatches of conversations between Bryce and his convoy that were headed towards Mt Selwyn. At the top of the mountains we were able to share some of the day’s adventures over the radio. All going well we would cross paths later in the day.

Many in our party took advantage of mobile phone access to catch up with family and some even called their workmates back in Sydney just to describe the view. Then it was down the mountain and of towards Mt Hotham.
Not long after leaving Mt Blue Rag we picked up the unmistakable voice of Herve talking to Bryce and Dave on the radio. Herve should have been in Jindabyne ages ago. After making a few enquiries it seems that he had dad a flat tyre on his new Discovery. Where is the spare wheel? - under the car. Time to read the owners manual.

When we came out onto the highway Sally and Jane took a left turn and headed back towards Sydney. The rest of us headed up to Mt Hotham as some of the vehicles were running a bit low on fuel. More magnificent views!

Diesel $1.65 per litre- just a bit of a top up thanks.

After Ice-creams it was back down the highway and turn left onto Twin Jeeps track. Not far down the track on a very narrow piece of road we met with a a couple of cars coming the other way- a cruiser and a Defender. They were quick to inform us that there was another group of cars close behind them. They were a bit surprised when Flash said “yeah I know. They’re from our club’. As flash continued to sing the praises of the LROC Bryce had arrived. After squeezing by each other we headed onward. Flash decided to try a short cut to the camp sight at Beveridges Station and it was up and over Two Jeeps Track into the unknown. Thank goodness for GPSs. We made it into camp with plenty of daylight to spare and a pleasant evening was spent around another real campfire.
Kris Burdett

Day 10
We woke to the sound of the many birds that inhabit this area. As we climber out of the valley the transmission light on Michael and Anna’s Disco came on. After a few checks and a bit of expert (?) advise it was decided that all was OK and we continued on our way. We travelled through forest tracks and onto forest roads and headed to Lake Cobbler for lunch. The facilities at the lake are a must to visit wether you need to or not. Talk about a room with a view.

After the climb up from the lake it was down the Staircase (with some apprehension on my behalf). The steepish zig-zag lead to the scraping staircase. “Take it easy”. We could hear Glens progress all the way down as his breaks were doing bell bird imitations all the way down. We all reached to bottom “no worries.”

We continued on through god’s own country- more breathtaking scenery, more amazing birds. After a photo opportunity at Kings Hut we headed to Pineapple Flat for the last night of the trip.

The river crossing at Pineapple Flat was reminisant of Bondi Beach. There were people everywhere taking the opportunity to cool off. Kids floating on lilos, adults sitting on chairs in the river under the shade of their beach umbrellas, children were building sand/mud/stone castles. The place seemed chockers. We hoped there was room for us.

We found a nice secluded spot by the river with cows to keep us company. Glen, Katrina and Jane went for a swim but found the water a bit chilly. Henry after chopping the wood for the fire, retired early to bed and missed out on the great debate as to which is the greatest sport- Soccer, Rugby League, Rugby Union or AFL.

As we later sat admiring yet another billion star night we reflected on the variety of te terrain we had covered on our trip. We had had it all except mud. Then the wind began to blow. Maybe we spoke to soon. Maybe the wind will bring the rain and with the rain we will get MUD.
Kris Burdett

Day 11
No rain = No mud. Just the way I like it.
After a few last minute photos of the local cows and a bit of air in Glen’s leaky tyre, we set out towards Craig’s Hut.

The area around the hut was quite crowded. Many of the locals who were involved in the hut’s restoration had come to spend a couple of days celebrating one of their colleague's birthday.

In the shade of the trees we stuck up a conversation with a couple who were setting up a very civilised morning tea for a group of horse riders who were due in any minute. Running horse trek was one part of this family’s business. Their family had been running cattle in the high country for generations. We told them where we had been over the last two weeks and they were interested to know if we had seen cattle on certain tracks- we had.

Recent laws have meant that cattlemen no longer have access many parts of the high country which their families have been using for years to graze cattle. As cattle are unable to read and as there are few fences in these areas, they often wander into these restricted areas. The owners of these cattle have to spend a lot of time rounding the wayward cattle up and moving on only to find they had returned a couple of weeks later.

Unfortunately the cattle we had seen on the Cobbera Trail belonged to the people now at the hut. The cattle had been moved out of the area a couple of weeks before Christmas but it appears that they prefer the grass around the Cobberas Trail area.

The views from the hut were once again breathtaking. It was obvious to see why this sight was chosen for the ‘Man From Snowy River’ movie. After a look around the hut and taking photographs it was time for a quick cuppa before we headed off down a Flash short cut towards Mt Stirling. (“We’ll be in Mansfield by lunch time” he said).

We stopped near the summit of Mt Stirling. Those of us who were feeling energetic took the short walk to the top. We were joined by a group of horse riders who were on day one of a three day trek across the mountains. I was rather envious. What a way to see this country.

As we wound our way up down and around we passed many fellow travellers; Some , like us in 4WDs; some on foot (rather them than me), others on mountain bikes.

We eventually made our way to Mt Bulla. It was about 2:30pm. As it was going to be a long drive home for some of our party, we decided not to walk up to the lookout on top of Mt Bulla (or was is because we were too lazy/unfit).

We hit the tar and arrived in Mansfield for afternoon tea and said our good-byes. Flash and I still had another week left of our holiday so we were heading west to reccee some parts of Victoria for later trips.

This was a excellent trip, with great scenery, great camp sights and great company. Well done Flash.

PS I was impressed by the amount of driving the women did on this trip and the skills they displayed in tackling some of the more challenging terrain. You never know when you may need to take the wheel. (tripping over an abandoned wine bottle in the dark could cause a sprained ankle and render a driver incapable). I am going to have to convince Flash to let me have a drive in the Troopie.
Kris Burdett.