Western Australia
Easter - 6th April to 3rd May 2007

Compiled by Bryce Messner & written by participants

Day One: Friday 6th April 2007 written by Bryce Messner

The Parfitts had arrived on Thursday night to beat the early start out of Sydney and a pleasant night was had by all.

Morning arrived and a leisurely departure at 9.30am for our meeting with the Gates & Halls in Orange at 10.00am.

The Halls & Gates were waiting in Orange at Cook Park but the Gates were filling the Disco for the next leg of the trip to meet up with Hugh at Lake Cargelligo. We travelled though the towns of Forbes & Condobolin and arriving at our destination Hugh was there also, waiting at a mate’s place over looking the Lake. We had lunch there before pushing on.

We travelled through Hillston & onto Willandra National Park for our overnight camp.

Unfortunately the creeks were dry but the spot we found we had to ourselves, a long drop and fireplace and plenty of trees.

After we were all set up for the night a campfire was arranged to ward of the slight coolness of the night.

Day Two: Saturday 7th April 2007 written by Darralynn Messner

A lovely morning was there to greet us as we arose, a quick breakfast and we were moving by 8.30am.

A short drive to parts of the old station in the form of the Rams Quarters. Truly wonderful structures for the stud rams of this past rural property white picket fence & thatched roof, truly English in design.

About half a kilometre away we visit the old shearing shed. Absolutely huge with it’s many stands still in place last used in 1959, but totally intact. The building complete with old Lister engines to run the shearing & great old wool press.

The other out buildings consisted of shearer's quarters, mess, kitchen, slaughter house & showers. The latter very interesting in as much as the shower control was by self hand pump to spray a cascade from a huge overhead rose, warmed by wood fire driven heaters.

We moved on from here but not before Bryce had taken a shot of a group of red kangaroos standing looking at us knowing they were safe in a national park.

Along the dirt track out we spotted dozens of roos and emus that we also stopped to takes photos. Also along here we found a pike of fallen telegraph poles & Hugh & Bryce managed to recover some insulators for their collection.

Arriving at Ivanhoe Derek filled his Discovery and we had a pie or two at the general store, then we pushed onto Menindee.

When we arrived here we headed straight to the local IGA for some supplies of bread, milk & ice creams. No time to look around here, we had been here before, we pushed onto our overnight stop.

Traveling through Kinchega National Park we hit our first real rough sections of road and came out onto the Silver City Highway. Here we turned left & a little way down the tar we again turn this time right towards Danggali Conservation Park in South Australia.

We came upon an interesting spectacle of a “Shoe Tree”. Many visitors passing by had nailed or tied old shoes in their dozens onto a solitary tree by the side of the road, a very unusual sight.

The country side was looking interesting from here as this was new territory for us and many roos and dozens upon dozens of feral goats ran every where at our approach. We also chased a large goanna up a tree near the first of many gates to open. The sun was now failing fast and we eventually pulled up for the night at dusk.

No fires here allowed as we were in a biosphere park but it was not that cold anyway.

Day Three: Sunday 8th April 2007 written by Bryce Messner

Another early departure after breakfast, we head off to seek an abandoned homestead. Not far from our camp we see a sign pointing us in the right direction of the Morgan Vale ruins. These are quite extensive with very different roofing for their large sheds, wire covered and covered in a type of thatching. Very interesting to walk around old ruins you never know what you will find.

We again move on traveling back roads through large properties & unfortunately for Darralynn lots of property gates to open.

Again the area is teaming with wild life emus, one of which almost become a hood ornament, red roos of which I shot some interesting in flight shots as they ran pacing us down a fence line until breaking off for the plains.

Along here Derek slams into a large red roo smashing his drivers mirror & back load area side window glass. The glass did not fall out as it was held together by window tint & then hundred mile an hour tape for the duration of the trip.

We stop off at Pandappa Conservation Park for lunch under some gums.

We reach town & head straight to the largest tree in SA at 10.59 metres around the girth, a huge red gum estimated at over 500 years old.

We head again by back road on dirt until we get to Peterborough & civilization. Then onto Port Augusta for a fuel stop.

We head off to a caravan park for our overnight stop while there is plenty of light & find an old style park but quite and clean and plenty of grass and shade trees.

A nice park complete with tame donkey, children’s zoo and aviaries including a peacock.

Day Four: Monday 9th April 2007 written by Sally Parfitt

First stop for the day was Port Augusta Tourist Centre, giving the group a chance to help the economy of Port Augusta by topping up the tourist bank or having a cup of tea or coffee at the cafe.

It was then onto the Water Tower Lookout. This metal water tank was once used to store water for Port Augusta but has now been converted into a lookout. To get to the top of the water tower you climb up steel steps, which have been built inside the old disused water tank. Once you have conquered the climb you get a fantastic view of Port Augusta and surrounding areas including the start of the Flinders Ranges.

A brief stop at Iron Knob and as the name indicates Iron Ore was once taken out of the ground the start of the Australian industry. All that is left of this township is a lot of very run down homes and a large ugly slagheap of black rock.

Stopped at Kimba for lunch but we really stopped here to have our group photo taken under the BIG GALAH. We have all heard of the Big Banana but in Kimba it is the BIG Grey, Pink and White GALAH. But Kimba also marks the half waypoint from Sydney to Perth.

A leisurely drive down the Eyre Highway through Koongawa, Kyancutta, Wudinna and then to Pildappa Rock which is situated 15 kms from Minnipa. Pildappa Rock is a very interesting rock formation as it is a small version of the Wave Rock found in WA.

As it had been a warm day and everyone was tired, it was decided to pitch our tents and take time out to relax in a comfy chair with a cold drink. Whilst enjoying the views as the rays of the setting sun lit up the surrounding countryside and Pildappa Rock.

Some climb to the summit of the rock that has views over the surrounding farmland to the horizon. In the camping ground there are BBQ’s, good long drops, table chairs & shelter that we took full advantage of. A nice campfire saw us all off to bed by 9.00pm.

Day Five: Tuesday 10th April 2007 written by Fran Gates

On decamping from this terrific site it was discovered that Bryce’s RM Williams boots & Darralynn’s coffee cup handle had been chewed by creatures unknown. The weather was o/cast with a temp of 24 degrees and we were away by 8.25am. We traveled to an adjacent property – Charkuldu, where we inspected abandoned shearing sheds, bunk houses & camp facilities dated back to the 1950’s. All were in excellent condition.

Traveling west we visited the Point Labatte Seal Colony (named after the famous Canadian beer). Here the wind rose to gale force with an ambient temp of 37deg. We got sand in every crevice & Cheryl had her glasses blown from her face and broken.

On to Streaky Bay for lunch and then to Fowlers Bay where you could see giant sand dunes nearly swallowing the town.

Then to refuel at Ceduna and across the border into WA without any problem from the nice Border Guards. We diverted to take in the ruins of an old abandoned Telegraph Station set among picturesque sand dunes – a photographic must.

We then started our journey across the Nullarbor and passed the dilapidated and boarded up Yalata camp ground previously visited by LROC members. By now it was heading toward 7.00pm and we had no choice but to continue on another 70klms to the Nullarbor truck Stop/Motel. Here we camped or took motel rooms while the rain bucketed down.

Day Six: Wednesday 11th April 2007 written by Jane Parfitt

This day was to become another great trip with fellow members of the Land Rover Owners Club. Our first camp stop on the Nullarbor Plains was to be at the Yalata Roadhouse, but when we arrived we found it was closed due to extensive termite damage to the building. This meant that we had to travel another 94 km's to The Nullarbor Roadhouse arriving, as the sun was setting and rain falling. We were told it very rarely rains on the Nullarbor Plains but this was not to be the case for us as it not only rained on and off whilst crossing the Nullarbor but it also rained on the way back across the Nullarbor. John & Cheryl Hall and Fran & Derek Gates had in their wisdom decided to get a hotel room for the night whilst the others decided to brave the elements. Unfortunately, Bryce found that water had entered his tent during the night, resulting in wet sleeping bags etc but it didn’t dampen Bryce’s spirit for the day.

Headed off down the road towards our first look at the magnificent cliffs along the Australian Bight. It is hard to imagine when Traveling along the Eyre Highway that you are at times only a very short distance from the most amazing sheer cliffs that just drop down hundreds of feet to the ocean. Anyone who has traveled along this road would have to agree that the views from the cliff edge across the ocean and along the coastline certainly take your breath away. We not only experienced great views along the coast but out towards the centre of the Nullarbor a wonderful backdrop of very dark clouds against a brightly lit sky. Nature can certainly turn on a great show.

Arrived at the SA/WA Border crossing at 10.00am and took the opportunity to stop for morning tea. During our stop an owner of a 130 Defender who had been waiting for a tow for his 130 since Sunday approached Bryce. Some mechanic over the phone had informed this gentleman that probably his engine would need rebuilding. After spending some time looking at the problem the boys discovered that his timing belt need replacing. Unfortunately Bryce thought he had one in spare but was discovered to be left at home & couldn’t help him so they left instructions with him as to how to fix the problem and what parts to order. It was then off across the Border. We had been told that getting across the border could take a while but the WA Border inspectors were very efficient and we all got across without any problems.

Next stop the Telegraph Station at Eucla. Not much left of this once magnificent sandstone building which is slowly being covered by sand dunes. From Eucla you leave the Nullarbor National Park and drop down onto another plain. This time the scenery changes from a flat treeless plain to a lovely small mountain range that goes for about 340 km’s from Eucla to Cocklebiddy. Fuel stop at Mundrabilla Roadhouse where Diesel was 1.30cpl which was 40 cents a litre cheaper then all the other Roadhouses along the Nullarbor and then lunch stop just outside Mundrabilla where Bryce took the opportunity to dry his tent.

Plan was to stop at Cocklebiddy Caves but due to a tragic caving accident these caves have now been closed. So we continued onto Calguna which is the start of the longest and straightest stretch of road in Australia – 146.6kms.

As it was getting late and there was no suitable place that we could find for camping we were forced to stop at a roadside area that was packed with lots of 2wdrives & Caravans. This would have been OK but the campsite was very dirty, no amenities and littered with toilet paper. Unless you stopped at the Roadhouses forget about coming across any decent rest areas. The SA and WA Government really need to improve this area for the traveler.

Day Seven: Thursday 12th April 2007 written by Sally Parfitt

To our surprise we awoke to a very foggy day which cleared to a lovely sunny day. Not far down the road saw the start of the longest, straightest stretch of road in Australia – being 146.6kms. Unfortunately due to major roadwork, that was to extend to over 50kms, it was hard to get the feel of driving along this important section of Australia roadway. Anyway it was still amazing to think that a section of highway can be this long and straight, although not sure why someone decided to add .6 of a km and not round it up to 147kms.

Arriving at Balladonia Roadhouse for morning tea, we all received a bag of goodies, courtesy of the WA Tourist Board, consisting of sunglasses, a key ring, light and hat.

It was here we turned due south onto dirt again & off to Esperance via Cape Arid National Park. It was evident that this area had received a lot of rain over the last week due to a large number of water holes across the dirt road, which increased as we continued down the track. A very strange sight met us as we came upon 2 gates on the track. For some unknown and weird reason someone had started to leave on these gates various items of men and women’s underwear. This was not the first time the group had witness this strange obsession of leaving items on gates, trees etc in the middle of nowhere. We had already come across 1 tree with shoes hanging from its branches and another tree with bottles hanging in it.

We then headed off down a 4wd track to Mount Ragged and Israelite Bay. Mount Ragged was a beautiful sight as the lowering sunrays hit the mountain and the low scrubs and trees on the plain before the mountain. At Y Junction to Esperance and Israelite Bay, John and Cheryl left the group to head off to Esperance to get a leaking windscreen fixed. The windscreen had only been replaced two weeks before but had started to leak again and water was getting in behind the dash of the vehicle. As each Km passed the road quickly deteriorated into a sandy, muddy and slippery track with some very deep water holes over the bull bar. As it was now 4.00pm it was becoming certain that we where not going to reach our campsite at Israelite Bay. It was now dark and we came upon a huge water hole across the track. When Bryce got out of his vehicle he couldn’t even stand up without sinking down into the murky water.

As was nearing 7pm it was decided to turn around and head back up the track to find a suitable camping spot. On the way back we came across a Dutch couple driving a Toyota Troop Carrier. They had wisely pulled off the track for the night. We offered for them to camp with us but as they had already started to set up camp it was decided they would meet us in the morning. Finally we reached a small rocky outcrop that gave us just enough space for camping. As everyone was tired and exhausted and the area was reasonably dry it was agreed that this was our camping site. The day certainly turned out to be much longer and the track harder then expected but then you never know what to expect when Traveling through areas not previously traversed. We wouldn’t have it any other way, the spirit of adventure strong with our little group of four remaining vehicles.

A small fire was started to dry us out as the rain ceased for the night, what a day!

Day Eight: Friday 13th April 2007 written by Bryce Messner

We woke dry to a sunny morning in contrast to an awful afternoon the day before. As we roused the Dutch couple arrived to introduce themselves in their 75 series Land Cruiser tray back, complete with camper tray & roof top tent like Hugh’s.

A lovely couple the girl 6’4”, wow what great legs, her partner 6’2” what a big fist. They were here in Australia for the fourth time & on this occasion for three months Traveling WA.

We moved out through low scrub that you could see for miles but only a mass of green low bottlebrush & arcacia’s many still in late flower.

We wound southwest towards the great southern ocean knowing somewhere there was a track along here. We weren’t meant to be heading this way but the submerged track of yesterday determining this our escape route. The Dutch hoping I knew our way out.

Massive deep water across the track extending sometimes a hundred metres at a time made our journey exhilarating to say the least, well I was having a ball!

Eventually we came out after 140km’s of cross-country travel to a graded road and the start of farmland, what a great track, a shame we were unable to reach Israelite Bay, but there is always next time.

An easy run on graded road, then onto the beach and waters edge at Cape Le Grand National Park. The water here the most perfect blue you can imagine against a foreground of pure white sand, truly breathtaking!

From here we leave our Dutch friends and head into Esperance and our overnight camping area, set out in a lovely campground.

After setting up our tents, Hugh & I head off to buy dinner & do some grocery shopping. Fish & chips at a road side fish stall is perfect, fresh out of the sea and steaming hot, a great way to see out another great day of adventure.

Day Nine: Saturday 14th April written by Hugh Scott

We move out early for our next step in our journey & head into Esperance. We stop at a monument of bronze seals at a waterfall making an unusual roundabout. Then we move onto look at the port authority wharf as it huge.

We then all meet at an antique village in town where Bryce finds a brand-new 3 tonne shackle on the ground in the car park.

Onwards to Albany following beautiful coastal scenery coming to famous “Pink Lakes” that is formed from algae in the salt crust. At one end of the lake is a salt making factory.

We arrive at Hopetoun for lunch, a tiny town of fisherman with a lovely old pub. We head down onto the sea shore for lunch under a lean to of timber & thatch roof. The Halls & Gates don’t join us they lunch elsewhere in town, at another park I believe.

We move out hard to leave this nice spot but we have other places to go. We wind our way around the coast again taking a dirt road past East Mount Barren, a fantastic high granite outcrop of jagged peaks looking out to sea.

We pass a fantastic array of wild flowers that we stop and admire and take many pictures along the good gravel road back to the highway.

Before we get there we stop to take pictures of a large wedge tail eagle feeding on a kangaroo road kill, truly magnificent.

We find a good free campsite off the side of the road and are joined by a couple of other travelers obviously happy for the safety of numbers.

Day Ten: Sunday 15th April written by Darralynn Messner

We move out after breakfast and arrive at Albany mid morning & head to the Brig Amity, a recreated sailing ship to full scale. We also visit the small museum here it’s quite good.

We also catch up with John & Cheryl here. From here we go onto the Whaling Museum 20km out of town.

This is a must see for any trip here recreating a past history of whale hunting. We have lunch here and its starting to rain and it’s getting cold & very windy.

We leave here and follow the coast around to Blow Hole & the London Bridge rock formations that cannot be missed here as well; truly raw nature at it’s best.

As its raining we head to a cabin park & manage to get the last family cabin in town. It has two double bedrooms, a lounge area with three double bunks & a fold down double bed, kitchen & shower. Bryce allows the Gates & Halls to have their own room as they seem a bit unhappy at the situation, the girls take the bunks, we take the fold down bed as we know the girls well & Hugh goes outside into his roof top to sleep. A warm dry night is had by all and a bit of television before bed, its pouring outside.

Day Eleven: Monday 16th April written by Fran Gates

We awoke to heavy rain. John made numerous phone calls to arrange for his wind screen and water ingress problem to be addressed and had to skedaddle up to Perth for a fix.

Luckily Derek’s rear side kangaroo damaged window only leaked a little thanks to Hugh’s excellent taping job. We departed our joint cabin at 9.00am and went our various ways to site see or shop.

Bryce’s note: Hugh & I went off to the Military Museum up on the peak overlooking Albany and the Anzac Memorial. It was from the Anzacs left for Anzac Cove at Gallipoli in 1914. This is a great museum with lots of hands on exhibits of Naval guns and cannon emplacements…lots of history worth the $7, the girls looked at camping shops & the shops.

We regrouped at 12.30pm and set off for Denmark where a relaxing lunch was taken on the banks of a small river with an ancient wooden bridge.

On to the Valley of the Giants, the giants being enormously breathtaking Karri trees. In this park you walk on a steel ramp & walkway up into the trees some 60 metres in the air very scary.

The area was green with rolling hills, clumps of forest & deer, emus & Ibis. We traveled on back roads into the Mt Franklin National Park to a bush camp at Fernhook Falls. This was well appointed except that each camp area was an individual site and the camp cook area had no lighting (seemingly removed by vandals some time before.) Minutes after our arrival the camp guardian materialized and held his hand out for $6.50/person. A pleasant evening was held around the campfire after dinner when we all ate cake.

Day Twelve: Tuesday 17th April 2007 written by Bryce Messner

We move out of Albany & head east through fantastic Karri Forests on the Great Forest Trees Drive. We visit the Grove of Giants a great place to feel small as you look to the sky & see how tall these trees are.

We find a stunning bridge ruin crossing over Boorara Brook with its green moss & darkly shaded beauty. Also we find an old tractor in a paddock with a tree growing from its centre…what a great pot plant. The Boorara Tree nearby reaches 80 metres to the heaven & is a disused fire tower with it’s winding spiral to the top, a very precarious climb in its day. Nearby is a recreated observance building that sat at the trees very top an amazing feat to build something this high without any scaffolding at all.

After lunch we move out to the largest inland dune in Australia south of Pemberton. This is a fabulous area of high dunes surrounded by high forest.

I am the only one who drives up onto the dunes, but not until after I get my self bogged to the diff two thirds of the way up an 80-foot dune.

I get out & lower my tires to 20lb PSI and then drive to the top. When up there they go for miles and are very hard packed on the crest.

Not far from here is a great campsite in the forest with plenty of firewood. We all have our individual sites but can see each other & have a marvelous campfire to see us off to bed.

Day Thirteen: Wednesday 18th April written by Jane Parfitt

Today was to be an easy short trip from Pemberton to Margaret River but of course unexpected adventures awaited us. First stop of the day was to view the Bicentennial Tree, which is 68 metres tall, and has Fire Lookout Tower perched on top of it. Only three in the group being Derek, Jane and Sally decided to climb up to the first platform which was only a very small section of it 68 metres. To enable you to climb the tree large metal spikes have been driven into the side of the tree with wire connecting the outside of the metal spikes. Nothing else to support you or catch you if you slipped whilst climbing the tree. Of course if it were in NSW all you would be able to do would be to view the tree from ground level.

Going up is fairly easy but coming down was another story, as the spacing between each spike was not set up for people who are vertically challenged. To climb to the top you need to be very fit or young as it is a long way up. After having taken and passed the climbing challenge we went back to Pemberton to do another climb, this time the Gloucester Tree. As it cost $10.00 to see the tree we all decided not to fork out $10.00 to see another tree with a Fire Tower on top of it.

Back along the highway towards Margaret River but not for long as Bryce saw a dirt track heading to Lake Jasper. The track was very bumpy and sandy but easy going. Lake Jasper was a medium sized lake with good camping areas around the lake edge. After a relaxing lunch we took the coastline track to Augusta which passed through D’Entrecastleaux National Park.

A few in the group were disappointed with the driving as the track was very bumpy and scenery not great as the bush enclosed the track stopping views of the sea and coastline but unfortunately not knowing the area once on the track there was no turning back.

Arriving at Augusta around 3pm it was agreed to stop overnight here but not before seeing Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. After paying a modest $3.00 entrance fee to view Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse we spent time looking at the lighthouse and walking out onto the large rock formations where the Southern and Indian Ocean meet. Although the sea was fairly calm it was still rough where the two seas meet and the large rock shelf that runs along this part of the rugged coastline. It certainly was well worth the stop.

We camped in Augusta at a camping park right on the ocean lake. Bryce & Hugh took photos of a giant stingray that swam near the shore. We had plenty of firewood for the night as the park manager had given us a twenty litre fire drum to burn the wood.

A nice night but later a cool breeze blew in from the Antarctic and drove us off to bed.

Day Fourteen: Thursday 19th April 2007 written by Darralynn Messner

A late start this morning from camp, Fran found her missing watch at last.

We moved out and stopped at Prevelly Beach for a look around and it was very nice & then onto Margaret River. We shop here for an hour in this trendy little town & buy pies for morning tea.

We head up the coast on the Caves track but don’t visit any this time. We head out to Cape Naturaliste LightHouse but decide not to pay to see another lighthouse & head to Dunsborough for lunch on the seaside. It’s fairly windy so we don’t walk out on the very long Busstleton jetty one of the longest in the southern hemisphere at 1841 metres totally made of wood in 1865.

We then drove out to Wellington Dam for our overnight camp. It was a very nice area with showers. Again it cost $6.50 a night given to camp wardens that donate their time during school holidays to make sure you pay your fees which Bryce hates doing. the visits from the local possums keep us entertained; another great campfire was had here as well.

Day Fifteen: Friday 20th April 2007 written by Darralynn Messner

After breaking camp we left our dam campsite as the fog was lifting, each of us to do our own exploration of Perth or Fremantle.

Hugh, Bryce & myself headed into our first stop to the Motor Museum that had an excellent array of old vehicles & motor bikes complete with a retro garage complete with workshop.
Next on the agenda was a walk around and shop at the Fremantle Markets where we also had lunch.

From here we found our way out to a channel lighthouse and a walk along the breakwater.
Next visit was the roundhouse that was Fremantle’s first prison & oldest public building still standing. Hugh & Bryce also visited the Maritime Museum that is apparently very set up with lots of improvements since our last visit.

So ended our tourist day in Fremantle.

Day Sixteen: Saturday 21st April 2007 written by Darralynn Messner

We were up pretty early & headed down to Fremantle wharf as we had tickets to Rottnest Island of the coast of Perth, Hugh, Bryce & Me the others all doing their own thing around town.

Well the trip overall a non-event taking about 40 minutes in a well-appointed twin cat ferry. We disembarked and headed for the tour bus that would circumnavigate the small island. It was formally a prison for aboriginals that were kept in appalling conditions & many died. In one of the main buildings there is a museum outlining the islands history.

There are many pristine bays and beaches all the way around the island & catering to sun worshipers & surfers. Along the route there are many bus stops where you can alight and take in the views. We also passed a wind farm to operate the islands power needs. The tourist aspect of the island was disappointing set up like a mini Surfers Paradise. We also managed to see a number of the small macro pods that the island was named after.

The three of us left after lunch heading back to Fremantle to take in Fremantle Prison & only just made the last tour for the day.

The last tour of Fremantle Prison was worth the effort even though a little spooky, especially the gallows and death row. The prison cells are as they should be cold stark and not a retirement apartment like modern jails.

The girls did a tour of Perth & a good walk through the botanical gardens, their pics looked like they had a nice day also.

Day Seventeen: Sunday 22nd April 2007 written by Sally Parfitt

Back on the road to Cervantes after a day and half of sightseeing around Fremantle and Perth. Interesting drive out of Perth via the newly developed suburbs and towns. We have all heard about the booming times in WA but until you are there it is hard to imagine what is happening. On the way via Scarborough, Wanneroo, Yanchep we kept coming across new suburbs of huge homes that just seem to have popped out of the sand.

On arriving at Lancelin we had to choose how to get to The Pinnacles, either via the main highway or along a track that hugged the coastline. You guessed it; it was to be along the sand track. Jane and I had been along this track 8 years ago but with a tour company in a 4wd Mitsubishi Canter. It was very interesting then and it was to be so again.

Whilst Bryce went back to Lancelin to buy a bush map of directions to The Pinnacles, the group watched adults and kids on trial bikes and beach buggies driving up and down the sand dunes. Apparently this is a very popular recreational play area for people from Perth and surrounding areas. Bryce was able to obtain from the local shopkeeper a Mud Map of sorts. Following the very rough directions on the map, also signs that consisted only of arrows painted on bits of tin or whatever was viable at the time and some good guess work Bryce managed to get us through to The Pinnacles.

After lowering our tyres we headed off along the sand dunes to our first destination - a rock formation known as The Wedge, which was the half waypoint to the Pinnacles National Park. This time the track did follow the coastline most of the way giving us not only views of the sea and the beautiful coastline but great driving along the sand and beach for many kilometres on a track only 10 metres wide along the Indian Ocean waterfront…fantastic.

About 1 km from The Wedge you come over a sand hill and there in front of you is this incredible sight of a shantytown, if you can call it a town, a lot of old dwellings made of tin and wood.

Whilst driving through this jumble mess of dwellings you felt as if you have stepped back 50 years. We saw a sign that indicated a shop but the shop consisted of a three sided tin shed with a roof which included a washing machine, a rough bench and a large chest freezer which had no food in it, just bait & ice.

Just as we where leaving a lady drove up in this rusted out Ford Laser. Well it once was a Ford Laser, but it now had no doors, very rusted out boot lid and bonnet, and no seats except for the driver. You could be certain of one thing about the car and that seeing it had plenty of rust – I’m sure rust was the only thing keeping the car together.

We stayed only long enough to get photos and then pushed onto The Wedge. We watched a windsurfer out on the ocean being pulled along by his parachute whilst we were all having lunch only metres from the oceans edge To get back onto the track we drove along the beach for 7.5kms. Nice firm sand but the beach was very narrow in places. Certainly wouldn’t be able to drive along this section during high tide.

We continued along the sandy track for another 20 kilometres or so, where we came across another shantytown. This time we came across a resident of the town who told us not to stop but to continue through. Not a very friendly person or place.

Arrived at The Pinnacles at 4pm. The Pinnacles are thousands of limestone pillars that rise out of the yellow sand, some up to 4m tall. Dutch sailors seeing these limestone pillars from the sea thought they where the remains of an ancient city.

Although we arrived later then expected it turned out to be the best time to be at The Pinnacles as the limestone pillars turned from a dull red colour to a brilliant deep red as the golden rays from the setting sun hit the limestone pillars. Another bonus at being late was the ranger had gone home so we saw it all for free.

After a very interesting day of driving over various type of terrain it was off down the tarred road to find a suitable camp not too far out of Cervantes, as we were by now getting tired. We found an off the road area with toilets, tables & chairs & fireplaces, but the signs proclaiming “No Fires” in WA’s current fire season. The night was mellow anyway and we saw the night out after a magnificent sundown.

Day Eighteen: Monday 23rd April 2007 written by Jane Parfitt

After our early breakfast we drove into Cervantes to visit something rare & wonderful.

Just 1km out of Cervantes is Lake Thetis. Lake Thetis is one of the few sites in the world where living Stromatolites are found – Stromatolites are one of the oldest forms of life on earth. Around the edge of the lake, Stromatolites occur as domes of limestone formed by the activity of microbial communities trapping and binding sediment and precipitating calcium carbonate from the water. My first impressions of these Stromatolites was well they look just like rocks but when you start looking at them closely and realise that they are indeed alive like coral and estimated to be over 1,200 years old, you actually appreciate that they are more than just a rock like life form. Stromatolites are like coral they grow and live in water – quite amazing.

After leaving Cervantes it was cross country to New Norcia. This town was started in 1846 by Dom Joseph Serra, a Spanish Benedict Monk, as a missionary outpost to help the local Aboriginals. A Monastery, Chapel, Convent, School, bakery etc was established over the years and are still in existence. However the school was closed in the 1970’s and the convent, monastery etc are now used as Education centres for school camps and conventions. Unfortunately time was against us allowing only an hour to look around this amazing town of beautiful buildings but New Norcia will be revisited on my next trip to WA. Then on towards Kalgoorlie via Bindoon, Northam, Toodyay, and Merredin with afternoon tea stop at Meckering.

At 10.59am on October 14 1968, an earthquake recording 6.9 on the Richter Scale hit Meckering that destroyed most of the town. Fortunately no deaths recorded but 20 people injured. The small roadside museum had examples of twisted railway track & damaged water pipe in a nice little park.

As we still had 230 kms to Kalgoorlie Bryce decided that it was time to start looking for our campsite, which we found just outside Carabin. Although it was a little noisy due to the number of large trucks etc rambling along the main highway, we had a great campfire amongst the red landscape & beautiful gums that surrounded us, so ended another full day.

Day Nineteen: Tuesday 24th April 2007 written by Jane Parfitt

Carabin to Kalgoorlie

Traveling along the Great Eastern Highway towards Kalgoorlie we came across the Golden Pipeline. When gold was discovered at Kalgoorlie, C Y O’Connor was commissioned by the WA Government to build a pipeline to carry water from Perth to Kalgoorlie. There are sections of the original pipeline still in use today and the pipeline is the longest water pipeline in the world.

We had a brief stop at Coolgardie to view the few buildings left of what was a very large gold town in its days. Although gold was discovered first at Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie has taken over from the forgotten sister of Coolgardie due to the vast amount of gold that was discovered at Kalgoorlie.

First stop at Kalgoorlie was the Super Pit. I was amazed at how much bigger the Super Pit was since last I was in Kalgoorlie in 1999. There seems to be no end to this monster of a pit. The pit is so deep now that the trucks that cart the ore look like little Tonka toys when they are at the bottom of the pit.

It was then free time to look around Kalgoorlie. A few of us looked around the Museum, which was very interesting. Bryce was very excited, as there was a room dedicated to the Freemasons, but Jane, Anne and I were more interested in the lovely old Trade Union Banners and replicas of Miners huts etc.

On arriving back at the Caravan Park we were stopped by the driver of a 130 Ute. He had already spoken to Hugh about his 130 but he just had to stop us for another talk also. We discovered that he had purchased his 130 last month after driving all the way to Sydney to collect it. We had to ask him why he went to Sydney to get his 130 when he could have got a Land Cruiser from the local dealer. He comment was that as he had to drive and work on Toyota’s for his work he wouldn’t own one as they where a load of rubbish and had problems. So it not true that Toyota’s don’t have problems – all vehicles have their issues, it’s just that we never hear of the problems Toyota’s have.

We also did a bit of shopping at the local IGA before heading back to our campground for the night. We also heard that Bryce & Hugh wanted to visit Hay Street but Darralynn put her foot down so they just took pictures outside.

Day Twenty: Wednesday 25th April Anzac Day 2007 written by Hugh Scott

After breakfast we headed out to the fantastic-working Museum that used to be Hannah's number one shaft.

We also passed the beginning of an Anzac Day March and feared the worst that museum would be closed, but we were in luck although had to wait half an hour for them to open.

Once inside this museum looked like the streets used to look around a typical mining site of the last century. Old tin shacks with paper lined walls and canvas beds to sleep on. Blacksmith shops & dynamite factory with mock up boxes of explosive. This place had to be seen to be believed at the authenticity represented.

We then took out hard hats for the ride down a 6-man car descending 1000ft underground. It took only seconds in the cramped conditions & once we were all down we began our undergroundtour. We saw old drills in operation, also how the air is circulated around the various levels.

On our way out our guide said any one wanting to walk up all the stairs of the spiral escape route was quite welcome but no one took advantage of the offer.

Once back at the surface we met up with Darralynn & went to see gold being smelted the old way into ingots, then to the large museum room here.

We all met in the car park and we then drove through Boulder and headed back to the Highway across the Nullarbor and not far down the H’way found a good site with facilities to camp at. A great campfire was had here & it was remarkably quite for a H’way.

Day Twenty One: Thursday 26th April 2007 written by Fran Gates

After spending a reasonably quiet night among the passing road trains and an army of caravaners we departed at 8.00am on a cool and sunny morning.

Today was to be a long drive day and we settled into watching the wedge tailed eagles soar overhead and the usual banter on the UF radio. All was proceeding well until one of Sally & Jane’s side window wind deflectors went walk about at 100k/hr. After a brief search the item was recovered or at least most of it. Today we experienced a strong tail wind (westerly) which was excellent for reducing our fuel consumption.

We pulled into Balladonia for a fuel & food stop & it was discovered one of Bryce’s front universals was nearly about to break so we took an hour out of our day while Bryce replaced it with one of his spares, this complete we were under way again.

At one truck stop we met some grey army caravaners all complaining of the amount of fuel they were guzzling Traveling west – oh dear! We motored on to Madura to a bush camp and dropped anchor in a rising wind and rain showers. Thanks to Bryce’s trusty chain saw we enjoyed the warmth of a campfire before turning in.

Day Twenty-Two: Friday 27th April 2007 written by Bryce Messner

Breaking camp early again we were well under way by 8.30am Nullarbor again heading east this time.

This time we were Traveling through light rain with overcast skies to make our driving a little cooler.

Our border crossing back into South Australia was uneventful this time not having to stop at all. We pushed on and did a few hundred kilometres until we reached Ceduna again.

The time was around 5.00pm as we decided to look for overnight cabins as the weather was getting nasty. Our first park we visited I thought expensive at $129 for one and $95 for another. I decided I would not pay so the Gates & Halls jumped in and took both of these.

The Parfitts, Hugh & the Messners went down the road to the next park and secured three very comfortable cabins at $45 a night complete with TV and ensuite, just going to show better to shop around instead of jumping in. For dinner we all the three of us went down to a local Italian restaurant for a great night before going back to our room for the night.

Day Twenty-Three: Saturday 28th April 2007 written by Bryce Messner

As arranged we all met at the tourist information centre for our passes to Googs Track but needing only a pass to camp in the National Park itself.

We filled our cars before heading off as we had 380 km’s before our next fill.

The Gates decided not to proceed with us, worrying how there V8 would make it or not and it was decided we would catch up at Port Augusta and continue on with us there.

Now there were four cars to continue north onto Googs Track. This 4x4 track in only recent times has been open to through traffic.

Through farm country we eventually came to the park gate proclaiming Dog Traps laid in park, close the gate & 6000 volts running through fence.

Winding though low gum forest down the sandy track we tackled a few low sand ridges not giving us a lot of trouble. We then turned off to Googs Lake for a break and morning tea. Along the track out to the lake we came upon two plaques one to “Goog” Denton & his son “Dinger” Denton, builders of the track.

We journeyed on traversing medium size sand ridges and many of the chopped up severely with ruts no doubt due to the many camper trailers Traveling this track and the many struggling to get over these dune. The majority of the crests were breached in high range third gear with momentum.

We eventually came to our target overnight camp at the base of Mt Finke, at the end of the large ridges. We had a warm fire although later on a stiff breeze came and forced us to put up a windbreak that worked quite well.

Googs Track is not to be taken lightly even though not very challenging, but it is remote and a long way between drinks & fun.

Day Twenty-Four: 29th April 2007 written by Bryce Messner

After we broke camp we headed to Mt Finke thinking we might drive to the top, but the track now barred with a barrier so walking the only option.

Marked on the map is a loop road back to the track which we had difficulty locating. Every track we tried ended in disappearing or a dead end forcing us back the way we came in, which was annoying.

We were still heading north Traveling through sand ridges and deep red sand country and the country now very green.

We crossed the tracks of the Trans Continental Train Line and took photos of us across the line. Darralynn a little nervous at being left facing down the train line, and not long after we all moved off, a super long freight train went screaming past…did I get nasty look.

Once up on the graded road we parked along the dingo fence and inflated our tyres back to normal. It was a great run along here and we were able to travel at good speed.

Arriving at Tarcoola you would expect to see a flurry of people with the amount of houses around but now all but one or two abandoned to the elements. We were able to go through the station and the maintenance yards still with much equipment just lying around.

Our next stop was for lunch at Glenambo, and the Halls proclaiming they are leaving us for a dash home, quite out of left field, so away they drove leaving us.

Then there were three to take it steadily towards Port Augusta our overnight stop as we arranged to meet up with the Gates to continue on.

We found our caravan park just before dark & the Gates already there had a cabin, they had been there the day before. We set about erecting our tents near a communal BBQ area and proceeded to get dinner ready on the barbie.

The Gates came over for a chat, but the Halls that were also in the park decided not to and stayed in a van they had booked…strange.

Day Twenty-Five: 30th April 2007 written by Sally Parfitt

Pt Augusta to Burra

We said our goodbyes to Derek and Fran today. As they had no time restriction getting back to Sydney they decided to extend their trip and were off to see Wilpena Pound. Unfortunately we didn’t get to say goodbye to John and Cheryl, although they were staying at the same caravan park as they had left early to get back to Sydney.

As we drove through Wilmington we came across two Land Rovers parked outside the Toy Museum. Of course once we saw the old Landies parked outside the Museum it was like bees to the honey pot, we just had to stop. The owner had certainly caught the Land Rover bug as not only did he have over 800 model Land Rover but 29 full size models.

After finally prizing the boys away from the Toy Museum our next stop was at Melrose for morning tea at Blueys Blundstone Blacksmith tearooms. Although the Blacksmith has long gone the current owners have restored the Blacksmith work area, and the house back to its glory, we spend an hour here having morning tea in the tearooms out in their garden, very nice and relaxing.

For the next 2 hours we drove at a very relaxing pace through the great countryside of Wirrabara, Laura, Gladstone and Yacka. From Yacka it was cross-country on dirt roads, through a number of farm properties (of course these roads were marked as public roads) to Andrews and then arriving at Burra.

After lunch we looked around Burra which included a walk around the old Cooper the lovely old stone terrace cottages and mine. These cottages are now used as holiday accommodation but were originally built for the miners and their families. Burra has a beautiful charm to it, which is mostly due to a lot of the original blue stone buildings still in existence. Camp for the night was at Burra Gorge. This is a great campsite with plenty of open flat camping area, toilets and firewood. During the night we had two lady travelers visit our campsite. One of the ladies Julie, who was Traveling by herself, asked if she could camp near us as she felt safe being camped next to a group of fellow four wheel drivers.

Julie had just purchased a Nissan Patrol and A Van Camper Van and had decided to travel around Victoria and South Australia. The other lady came across asking if we could give her a lift into Burra the next day, as she had no fuel left in her vehicle, no food and no money left. Unfortunately as we where not returning to Burra the next day we couldn’t give the lady a lift into Burra, so the best we could offer her was a hot meal and cuppa tea.

Day Twenty-Six: Tuesday 1st May 2007 written by Jane Parfitt

Burra to Mildura

Said our goodbyes to Julie and on the way out of Burra Gorge stopped to look at
the ruins of a farmhouse. As we were still concerned about the lady who apparently had no money or food we decided to report this to the Police at Robertstown.

Although the station wasn’t manned Bryce spoke to the Constable by phone and they said they would drive out to Burra Gorge to investigate this. We learned later at Morgan Post Office that the lady was known in the area and she always got lifts either into Burra or Morgan when her food or money ran out.

We stopped at Morgan and had morning tea whilst watching the boats Traveling along the Murray River. When at Port Augusta a couple told us of a great camping spot at Plush’s Bend just outside of Renmark. Stopped at Plush’s Bend for lunch.

Great camping spot right beside the Murray River and certainly worth a stop when next in the area. Didn’t have the time to sit back and enjoy the Murray River but fortunately our campsite at Psyche Bend was alongside the mighty Murray. Psyche Bend was a great find. It’s situated just outside Mildura and not far from Psyche Bend pump station. This pump station was built to direct water from the Murray River into the irrigation system. Had time to set up camp and sit back and watch the sun set over the Murray River. What a finish to another great day of driving around our beautiful country.

Day Twenty-Seven: Wednesday 2nd May 2007 written by Darralynn Messner

Very hard to leave this wonderful spot on the Murray but we must press on. Down from where we are camped is the old pumping station and we all spend some time investigating and poke around the area.

We move off to Mildura where we visit Big Lizzie a large Chaffy Engine from the 1915’s era. We also find a large garage sale that we have a poke around and the owner wants to sell us a series one Land Rover but we decline.

Moving on again we stop at Euston in the grounds of the RSL right on the Murray River for lunch and watch the wild ducks feeding on the lawn.

We stop further along at the Ravensworth Truck Parking Stop for afternoon tea. From here we decide to find a campsite and the search begins.

We turn off at Darlington Point towards the river & drive along way in, winding near the river until we come to a perfect spot right on the river. We have to tidy up after the last campers but once done its neat as a pin. A big fire was enjoyed as we had a ton of wood to burn.

Day Twenty- Eight: Thursday 3rd May 2007 written by Hugh Scott

A lovely spot we have to leave but vow to return here for a couple of days in the future. We head off making this our last day of the trip.

We get to Junee and head off to liquorice factory for some purchases and a great cup of coffee or hot chocolate for some. This is a top spot to visit if passing by and you can see them making chocolate & liquorice in the factory that use to be a flour mill years ago.

We drive on and have lunch at Wallendbeen before we all head our separate ways.

On behalf of all participants thank you Bryce & Darralynn for a well run trip as usual and look forward to the next big trip.